Wave-Follower Field Measurements of the Wind-Input Spectral Function. Part I: Measurements and Calibrations

Mark A. Donelan Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Science, University of Miami, Miami, Florida

Search for other papers by Mark A. Donelan in
Current site
Google Scholar
PubMed
Close
,
Alexander V. Babanin School of Engineering and Science, Swinburne University of Technology, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Search for other papers by Alexander V. Babanin in
Current site
Google Scholar
PubMed
Close
,
Ian R. Young Swinburne University of Technology, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Search for other papers by Ian R. Young in
Current site
Google Scholar
PubMed
Close
,
Michael L. Banner School of Mathematics, University of New South Wales, Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

Search for other papers by Michael L. Banner in
Current site
Google Scholar
PubMed
Close
, and
Cyril McCormick Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Science, University of Miami, Miami, Florida

Search for other papers by Cyril McCormick in
Current site
Google Scholar
PubMed
Close
Restricted access

Abstract

An experimental study of wind energy and momentum input into finite-depth wind waves was undertaken at Lake George, New South Wales, Australia. To measure microscale oscillations of induced pressure above surface waves, a high-precision wave-follower system was developed at the University of Miami, Florida. The principal sensing hardware included Elliott pressure probes, hot-film anemometers, and Pitot tubes. The wave-follower recordings were supplemented by a complete set of relevant measurements in the atmospheric boundary layer, on the surface, and in the water body. This paper is dedicated to technical aspects of the measurement procedure and data analysis. The precision of the feedback wave-following mechanism did not impose any restrictions on the measurement accuracy in the range of wave heights and frequencies relevant to the problem. Thorough calibrations of the pressure transducers and moving Elliott probes were conducted. It is shown that the response of the air column in the connecting tubes provides a frequency-dependent phase shift, which must be accounted for to recover the low-level induced pressure signal. In the finite-depth environment of Lake George, breaking waves play an important role in the momentum exchange between wind and waves, as will be shown in a subsequent paper.

Corresponding author address: Dr. Alex Babanin, School of Engineering and Science, Swinburne University of Technology, Melbourne, VIC 3122, Australia. Email: ababanin@swin.edu.au

Abstract

An experimental study of wind energy and momentum input into finite-depth wind waves was undertaken at Lake George, New South Wales, Australia. To measure microscale oscillations of induced pressure above surface waves, a high-precision wave-follower system was developed at the University of Miami, Florida. The principal sensing hardware included Elliott pressure probes, hot-film anemometers, and Pitot tubes. The wave-follower recordings were supplemented by a complete set of relevant measurements in the atmospheric boundary layer, on the surface, and in the water body. This paper is dedicated to technical aspects of the measurement procedure and data analysis. The precision of the feedback wave-following mechanism did not impose any restrictions on the measurement accuracy in the range of wave heights and frequencies relevant to the problem. Thorough calibrations of the pressure transducers and moving Elliott probes were conducted. It is shown that the response of the air column in the connecting tubes provides a frequency-dependent phase shift, which must be accounted for to recover the low-level induced pressure signal. In the finite-depth environment of Lake George, breaking waves play an important role in the momentum exchange between wind and waves, as will be shown in a subsequent paper.

Corresponding author address: Dr. Alex Babanin, School of Engineering and Science, Swinburne University of Technology, Melbourne, VIC 3122, Australia. Email: ababanin@swin.edu.au

Save
  • Babanin, A. V., Young I. R. , and Banner M. L. , 2001: Breaking probabilities for dominant surface waves on water of finite constant depth. J. Geophys. Res., 106 , 1165911676.

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Banner, M. L., 1990: The influence of wave breaking on the surface pressure distribution in wind–wave interactions. J. Fluid Mech., 211 , 463495.

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Banner, M. L., and Melville W. K. , 1976: On the separation of air flow above water waves. J. Fluid Mech., 77 , 825842.

  • Dobson, F. W., 1971: Measurements of atmospheric pressure on wind-generated sea waves. J. Fluid Mech., 27 , 91127.

  • Donelan, M. A., 1999: Wind-induced growth and attenuation of laboratory waves. Wind-over-Wave Couplings: Perspective and Prospects, S. G. Sajadi, N. H. Thomas and J. C. R. Hunt, Eds., Clarendon Press, 183–194.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Donelan, M. A., Drennan W. M. , and Magnusson A. K. , 1996: Non-stationary analysis of the directional properties of propagating waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 30 , 31453160.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Donelan, M. A., Madsen N. , Kahma K. K. , Tsanis I. K. , and Drennan W. M. , 1999: Apparatus for atmospheric surface layer measurements over waves. J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol., 16 , 11721182.

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Elliott, J. A., 1972a: Instrumentation for measuring static pressure fluctuations within the atmospheric boundary layer. Bound.-Layer Meteor., 22 , 476495.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Elliott, J. A., 1972b: Microscale pressure fluctuations near waves being generated by wind. J. Fluid Mech., 54 , 427448.

  • Hasselmann, D., and Bösenberg J. , 1991: Field measurements of wave-induced pressure over wind-sea and swell. J. Fluid Mech., 230 , 391428.

  • Hasselmann, K., 1960: Grundleiehungen der Seegangsvoraussage. Schiffstechnik, 7 , 191195.

  • Hsiao, S. V., and Shemdin O. H. , 1983: Measurements of wind velocity and pressure with a wave follower during MARSEN. J. Geophys. Res., 88 , 98419849.

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Longuet-Higgins, M. S., Cartwright D. E. , and Smith N. D. , 1963: Observation of the directional spectrum of sea waves using the motions of a floating buoy. Ocean Wave Spectra: Proceedings of the Conference on Ocean Wave Spectra, Prentice Hall, 111–136.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Plant, W. J., 1982: A relationship between wind stress and wave slope. J. Geophys. Res., 87 , 19611967.

  • Snyder, R. L., 1974: A field study of wave-induced pressure fluctuations above surface gravity waves. J. Mar. Res., 24 , 141178.

  • Snyder, R. L., Dobson F. W. , Elliott J. A. , and Long R. B. , 1981: Array measurements of atmospheric pressure fluctuations above surface gravity waves. J. Fluid Mech., 102 , 159.

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Sobey, R. J., 1986: Wind-wave prediction. Annu. Rev. Fluid Mech., 16 , 149172.

  • Veron, F., and Melville W. K. , 1999: Pulse-to-pulse coherent Doppler measurements of waves and turbulence. J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol., 16 , 15801597.

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Young, I. R., 1999: Wind Generated Ocean Waves. Elsevier, 288 pp.

  • Young, I. R., and Sobey R. J. , 1985: Measurements of the wind-wave energy flux in an opposing wind. J. Fluid Mech., 123 , 427442.

  • Young, I. R., and Verhagen L. A. , 1996a: The growth of fetch limited waves in water of finite depth, Part I: Total energy and peak frequency. Coastal Eng., 29 , 4778.

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Young, I. R., and Verhagen L. A. , 1996b: The growth of fetch limited waves in water of finite depth, Part II: Spectral evolution. Coastal Eng., 29 , 79100.

    • Crossref
    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
All Time Past Year Past 30 Days
Abstract Views 0 0 0
Full Text Views 406 155 15
PDF Downloads 221 69 2