Space–Time Extremes in Short-Crested Storm Seas

Francesco Fedele School of Civil and Environmental Engineering, and School of Electrical and Computer Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta, Georgia

Search for other papers by Francesco Fedele in
Current site
Google Scholar
PubMed
Close
Restricted access

We are aware of a technical issue preventing figures and tables from showing in some newly published articles in the full-text HTML view.
While we are resolving the problem, please use the online PDF version of these articles to view figures and tables.

Abstract

This study develops a stochastic approach to model short-crested stormy seas as random fields both in space and time. Defining a space–time extreme as the largest surface displacement over a given sea surface area during a storm, associated statistical properties are derived by means of the theory of Euler characteristics of random excursion sets in combination with the Equivalent Power Storm model. As a result, an analytical solution for the return period of space–time extremes is given. Subsequently, the relative validity of the new model and its predictions are explored by analyzing wave data retrieved from NOAA buoy 42003, located in the eastern part of the Gulf of Mexico, offshore Naples, Florida. The results indicate that, as the storm area increases under short-crested wave conditions, space–time extremes noticeably exceed the significant wave height of the most probable sea state in which they likely occur and that they also do not violate Stokes–Miche-type upper limits on wave heights.

Corresponding author address: Francesco Fedele, School of Electrical and Computer Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, 777 Atlantic Drive NW, Atlanta, GA 30332. E-mail: fedele@gatech.edu

Abstract

This study develops a stochastic approach to model short-crested stormy seas as random fields both in space and time. Defining a space–time extreme as the largest surface displacement over a given sea surface area during a storm, associated statistical properties are derived by means of the theory of Euler characteristics of random excursion sets in combination with the Equivalent Power Storm model. As a result, an analytical solution for the return period of space–time extremes is given. Subsequently, the relative validity of the new model and its predictions are explored by analyzing wave data retrieved from NOAA buoy 42003, located in the eastern part of the Gulf of Mexico, offshore Naples, Florida. The results indicate that, as the storm area increases under short-crested wave conditions, space–time extremes noticeably exceed the significant wave height of the most probable sea state in which they likely occur and that they also do not violate Stokes–Miche-type upper limits on wave heights.

Corresponding author address: Francesco Fedele, School of Electrical and Computer Engineering, Georgia Institute of Technology, 777 Atlantic Drive NW, Atlanta, GA 30332. E-mail: fedele@gatech.edu
Save
  • Adler, R. J., 1981: The Geometry of Random Fields. John Wiley, 275 pp.

  • Adler, R. J., 2000: On excursion sets, tube formulae, and maxima of random fields. Ann. Appl. Probab., 10, 174.

  • Adler, R. J., and J. E. Taylor, 2007: Random Fields and Geometry. Springer Monogr. in Mathematics, Vol. 115, Springer, 454 pp.

  • Allender, J., and Coauthors, 1989: The WADIC project: A comprehensive field evaluation of directional wave instrumentation. Ocean Eng., 16, 505536.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Arena, F., 2004: On the prediction of extreme sea waves. Environmental Sciences and Environmental Computing, Vol. 2, P. Zannetti, Ed., EnviroComp Institute, CD-ROM.

  • Arena, F., and D. Pavone, 2006: The return period of non-linear high wave crests. J. Geophys. Res., 111, C08004, doi:10.1029/2005JC003407.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Arena, F., and D. Pavone, 2009: A generalized approach for the long-term modelling of extreme sea waves. Ocean Modell., 26, 217225.

  • Baxevani, A., and I. Richlik, 2004: Maxima for Gaussian seas. Ocean Eng., 33, 895911.

  • Bechle, A. J., and C. H. Wu, 2011: Virtual wave gauges based upon stereo imaging for measuring surface wave characteristics. Coastal Eng., 58, 305316.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Benetazzo, A., 2006: Measurements of short water waves using stereo matched image sequences. Coastal Eng., 53, 10131032.

  • Benetazzo, A., F. Fedele, G. Gallego, P.-C. Shih, and A. Yezzi, 2012: Offshore stereo measurements of gravity waves. Coastal Eng., 64, 127138.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Boccotti, P., 1981: On the highest waves in a stationary Gaussian process. Atti Accad. Ligure Sci. Lett., 38, 271302.

  • Boccotti, P., 1997a: A general theory of three-dimensional wave groups. Part I: The formal derivation. Ocean Eng., 24, 265280.

  • Boccotti, P., 1997b: A general theory of three-dimensional wave groups. Part II: Interaction with a breakwater. Ocean Eng., 24, 281300.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Boccotti, P., 2000: Wave Mechanics for Ocean Engineering. Elsevier, 496 pp.

  • Borgman, L. E., 1973: Probabilities for the highest wave in a hurricane. J. Waterw. Port Coastal Ocean Eng. Div., 99, 185207.

  • Dankert, H., J. Horstmann, S. Lehner, and W. G. Rosenthal, 2003: Detection of wave groups in SAR images and radar image sequences. IEEE Trans. Geosci. Remote Sens., 41, 14371446.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • de Vries, S., D. F. Hill, M. A. de Schipper, and M. J. F. Stive, 2011: Remote sensing of surf zone waves using stereo imaging. Coastal Eng., 58, 239250.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Fedele, F., 2005: Successive wave crests in Gaussian seas. Probab. Eng. Mech., 20, 355363.

  • Fedele, F., 2008: Rogue waves in oceanic turbulence. Physica D, 237 (14–17), 21272131.

  • Fedele, F., and M. A. Tayfun, 2009: On nonlinear wave groups and crest statistics. J. Fluid Mech., 620, 221239.

  • Fedele, F., and F. Arena, 2010: Long-term statistics and extreme waves of sea storms. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 40, 11061117.

  • Fedele, F., Z. Cherneva, M. A. Tayfun, and C. Guedes Soares, 2010: NLS invariants and nonlinear wave statistics. Phys. Fluids, 22, 036601, doi:10.1063/1.3325585.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Fedele, F., A. Benetazzo, and G. Z. Forristall, 2011a: Space-time waves and spectra in the northern Adriatic Sea via a wave acquisition stereo system. Proc. 30th Int. Conf. on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering, Rotterdam, Netherlands, ASME, OMAE2011-49924.

  • Fedele, F., G. Gallego, A. Benetazzo, A. Yezzi, M. Sclavo, M. Bastianini, and L. Cavaleri, 2011b: Euler characteristics and maxima of oceanic sea states. J. Math. Comput. Sim., 82, 11021111.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Forristall, G. Z., 2006: Maximum wave heights over an area and the air gap problem. Proc. 25th Int. Conf. Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering, Hamburg, Germany, ASME, OMAE2006-92022.

  • Forristall, G. Z., 2007: Wave crest heights and deck damage in Hurricanes Ivan, Katrina and Rita. Proc. Offshore Technology Conf., Houston, TX, OTC 18620.

  • Forristall, G. Z., and K. C. Ewans, 1998: Worldwide measurements of directional wave spreading. J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol., 15, 440469.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Gallego, G., A. Yezzi, F. Fedele, and A. Benetazzo, 2011: A variational stereo algorithm for the three-dimensional reconstruction of ocean waves. IEEE Trans. Geosci. Remote Sens., 49, 44454457.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Gemmrich, J. R., and C. Garrett, 2008: Unexpected waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 38, 23302336.

  • Goda, Y., 1999: Random Seas and Design of Maritime Structures. World Scientific, 443 pp.

  • Guedes Soares, C., 1988: Bayesian prediction of design wave height. Proc. Second Working Conf. on Reliability and Optimization of Structural Systems, London, United Kingdom, IFIP Working Group, 311–323.

  • Gumbel, E. J., 1958: Statistics of Extremes. Columbia University Press, 373 pp.

  • Isaacson, M., and N. G. Mackenzie, 1981: Long-term distributions of ocean waves: A review. J. Waterw. Port Coastal Ocean Div., 107, 93109.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Janssen, P. A. E. M., 2003: Nonlinear four-wave interactions and freak waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 33, 863884.

  • Krogstad, H. E., 1985: Height and period distributions of extreme waves. Appl. Ocean Res., 7, 158165.

  • Marom, M., R. M. Goldstein, E. B. Thornton, and L. Shemer, 1990: Remote sensing of ocean wave spectra by interferometric synthetic aperture radar. Nature, 345, 793795.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Marom, M., L. Shemer, and E. B. Thornton, 1991: Energy density directional spectra of nearshore wavefield measured by interferometric synthetic aperture radar. J. Geophys. Res., 96, 22 12522 134.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Michell, J. H., 1893: On the highest waves in water. Philos. Mag., 5, 430437.

  • Mori, N., and P. A. E. M. Janssen, 2006: On kurtosis and occurrence probability of freak waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 36, 14711483.

  • O’Reilly, W. C., T. H. C. Herbers, R. J. Seymour, and R. T. Guza, 1996: A comparison of directional buoy and fixed platform measurements of Pacific swell. J. Atmos. Oceanic Technol., 13, 231238.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Piterbarg, V., 1995: Asymptotic Methods in the Theory of Gaussian Processes and Fields. Translations of Mathematical Monographs, Vol. 148, American Mathematical Society, 206 pp.

  • Prevosto, M., H. E. Krogstad, and A. Robin, 2000: Probability distributions for maximum wave and crest heights. Coastal Eng., 40, 329360.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Rice, S. O., 1944: Mathematical analysis of random noise. Bell Syst. Tech. J., 23, 282332.

  • Rice, S. O., 1945: Mathematical analysis of random noise. Bell Syst. Tech. J., 24, 46156.

  • Rosenthal, W., and S. Lehner, 2008: Rogue waves: Results of the MaxWave project. J. Offshore Mech. Arc. Eng., 130, 021006, doi:10.1115/1.2918126.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Stokes, G. G., 1880: Considerations relative to the greatest height of oscillatory irrotational waves which can be propagated without change of form. On the Theory of Oscillatory Waves, G. G. Stokes, Ed., Cambridge University Press, 225–229.

  • Tamura, H., T. Waseda, and Y. Miyazawa, 2009: Freakish sea state and swell-windsea coupling: Numerical study of the Suwa-Maru incident. Geophys. Res. Lett., 36, L01607, doi:10.1029/2008GL036280.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Tayfun, M. A., 1979: Joint occurrences in coastal flooding. J. Waterw. Port Coastal Ocean Div., 105, 107123.

  • Tayfun, M. A., 1980: Narrow band nonlinear sea waves. J. Geophys. Res., 85 (C3), 15481552.

  • Tayfun, M. A., 1986: On narrow-band representation of ocean waves. 1. Theory. J. Geophys. Res., 91 (C6), 77437752.

  • Tayfun, M. A., 2008: Distributions of envelope and phase in wind waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 38, 27842800.

  • Tayfun, M. A., and F. Fedele, 2007: Wave-height distributions and nonlinear effects. Ocean Eng., 34 (11–12), 16311649.

  • Taylor, J., A. Takemura, and R. Adler, 2005: Validity of the expected Euler characteristic heuristic. Ann. Probab., 33, 13621396.

  • Wanek, J. M., and C. H. Wu, 2006: Automated trinocular stereo imaging system for three-dimensional surface wave measurements. Ocean Eng., 33 (5–6), 723747.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Waseda, T., M. Hallerstig, K. Ozaki, and H. Tomita, 2011: Enhanced freak wave occurrence with narrow directional spectrum in the North Sea. Geophys. Res. Lett., 38, L13605, doi:10.1029/2011GL047779.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Worsley, K. J., 1996: The geometry of random images. Chance, 9, 2740.