• Annenkov, S. Y., and V. I. Shrira, 2009: Evolution of kurtosis for wind waves. Geophys. Res. Lett., 36, L13603, doi:10.1029/2009GL038613.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Badulin, S. I., A. V. Babanin, V. E. Zaharov, and D. Resio, 2007: Weakly turbulent laws of wind wave growth. J. Fluid Mech., 591, 339378.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Caulliez, G., V. Makin, and V. Kudryavtsev, 2008: Drag of the water surface at very short fetches: Observations and modeling. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 38, 20382055.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Forristall, G. Z., 1978: On the statistical distribution of wave heights in a storm. J. Geophys. Res., 83, 15481552.

  • Forristall, G. Z., 2005: Understanding rogue waves: Are new physics really necessary? Rogue Waves: Proc. 14th ‘Aha Huliko’a Hawaiian Winter Workshop, Honolulu, HI, University of Hawaii at Manoa, 29–35.

  • Fu, L.-L., and R. Glazman, 1991: The effect of the degree of wave development on the sea state bias in radar altimetry measurement. J. Geophys. Res., 96 (C1), 829834.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Goda, Y., 2000: Random Seas and Design of Marine Structures. World Scientific, 443 pp.

  • Hasselmann, D. E., M. Dunckel, and J. A. Ewing, 1980: Directional wave spectra observed during JONSWAP 1973. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 10, 12641280.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Huang, N. E., and S. R. Long, 1980: An experimental study of the surface elevation probability distribution and statistics of wind generated waves. J. Fluid Mech., 101, 179200.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Janssen, P. A. E. M., 2004: The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind. Cambridge University Press, 300 pp.

  • Kahma, K. K., 1981: A study of the growth of the wave spectrum with fetch. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 11, 15031515.

  • Kahma, K. K., and C. J. Calkoen, 1992: Reconciling discrepancies in observed growth of wind-generated waves. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 22, 13891405.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Kinsman, B., 1965: Wind Waves. Prentice-Hall, Inc., 676 pp.

  • Kitaigorodskii, S. A., 1961: Application of the theory of similarity to the analysis of wind generated wave motion as a stochastic process. Izv. Akad. Nauk SSSR, Ser. Geofiz.,1, 105–117.

  • Liberzon, D., and L. Shemer, 2011: Experimental study of the initial stages of wind waves’ spatial evolution. J. Fluid Mech., 681, 462498.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Longuet-Higgins, M., 1952: On the statistical distribution of the heights of sea waves. J. Mar. Res., 11, 245266.

  • Longuet-Higgins, M., 1963: The effect of nonlinearities on statistical distributions in the theory of sea waves. J. Fluid Mech., 17, 459480.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Mitsuyasu, H., 1968: On the growth of the spectrum of wind-generated waves I. Rep. Res. Inst. Appl. Mech. Kyushu Univ., 16, 459482.

  • Mitsuyasu, H., and T. Honda, 1974: The high frequency spectrum of wind-generated waves. J. Oceanogr. Soc. Japan, 30, 185198.

  • Mori, N., M. Onorato, P. A. E. M. Janssen, A. R. Osborne, and M. Serio, 2007: On the extreme statistics of long-crested deep water waves: theory and experiments. J. Geophys. Res., 112, C09011, doi:10.1029/2006JC004024.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Onorato, M., A. R. Osborne, M. Serio, and L. Cavaleri, 2005: Modulational instability and non-Gaussian statistics in experimental random water-wave trains. Phys. Fluids, 17, 078101, doi:10.1063/1.1946769.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Onorato, M., A. R. Osborne, M. Serio, L. Cavaleri, C. Brandini, and C. T. Stansberg, 2006: Extreme waves, modulational instability and second order theory: Wave flume experiments on irregular waves. Eur. J. Mech., 25B, 586601.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Onorato, M., and Coauthors, 2009: Statistical properties of mechanically generated surface gravity waves: A laboratory experiment in a three-dimensional wave basin. J. Fluid Mech., 627, 235257.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Phillips, O. M., 1958: The equilibrium range in the spectrum of wind-generated waves. J. Fluid Mech., 4, 426434.

  • Phillips, O. M., 1977: The Dynamics of the Upper Ocean. 2nd ed. Cambridge University Press, 336 pp.

  • Pierson, W. J., and L. Moskowitz, 1964: A proposed spectral form for fully developed wind seas. J. Geophys. Res., 69, 51815190.

  • Shemer, L., and A. Sergeeva, 2009: An experimental study of spatial evolution of statistical parameters in a unidirectional narrow-banded random wavefield. J. Geophys. Res., 114, C01015, doi:10.1029/2008JC005077.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Shemer, L., A. Sergeeva, and D. Liberzon, 2010a: Effect of the initial spectrum on the spatial evolution of statistics of unidirectional nonlinear random waves. J. Geophys. Res., 115, C12039, doi:10.1029/2010JC006326.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Shemer, L., A. Sergeeva, and A. Slunyaev, 2010b: Applicability of envelope model equations for simulation of narrow-spectrum unidirectional random field evolution: Experimental validation. Phys. Fluids, 22, C12039, doi:10.1063/1.3290240.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Socquet-Juglard, H., K. Dysthe, K. Trulsen, H. E. Krogstad, and J. Liu, 2005: Probability distributions of surface gravity waves during spectral changes. J. Fluid Mech., 542, 195216.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Tayfun, M. A., 1980: Narrow-band nonlinear sea waves. J. Geophys. Res., 85 (C3), 15481552.

  • Tayfun, M. A., 2006: Statistics of nonlinear wave crests and groups. Ocean Eng., 33, 15891622.

  • Tayfun, M. A., and F. Fedele, 2007: Wave height distributions and nonlinear effects. Ocean Eng., 34, 16311649.

  • Toba, Y., 1972: Local balance in the air-sea boundary processes. I. On the growth process of wind waves. J. Oceanogr. Soc. Japan, 28, 109120.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Toba, Y., 1973: Local balance in the air-sea boundary processes. III. On the spectrum of wind waves. J. Oceanogr. Soc. Japan, 29, 209220.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
  • Zavadsky, A., and L. Shemer, 2012: Characterization of turbulent air flow over evolving water-waves in a wind wave tank. J. Geophys. Res., 117, C00J19, doi:10.1029/2011JC007790.

    • Search Google Scholar
    • Export Citation
All Time Past Year Past 30 Days
Abstract Views 0 0 0
Full Text Views 149 61 0
PDF Downloads 119 35 0

Statistical Analysis of the Spatial Evolution of the Stationary Wind Wave Field

View More View Less
  • 1 School of Mechanical Engineering, Tel-Aviv University, Tel-Aviv, Israel
  • | 2 Civil Engineering and Geological Sciences, University of Notre Dame, Notre Dame, Indiana
  • | 3 School of Mechanical Engineering, Tel-Aviv University, Tel-Aviv, Israel
Restricted access

Abstract

Detailed investigation of wind-generated water waves in a 5-m-long wind wave flume facility is reported. Careful measurements were carried out at a large number of locations along the test section and at numerous airflow rates. The evolution of the wind wave field was investigated using appropriate dimensionless parameters. When possible, quantitative comparison with the results accumulated in field measurements and in larger laboratory facilities was performed. Particular attention was given to the evolution of wave frequency spectra along the tank, distinguishing between the frequency domain around the spectral peak and the high-frequency tail of the spectrum. Notable similarity between the parameters of the evolving wind wave field in the present facility and in field measurements was observed.

Corresponding author address: L. Shemer, School of Mechanical Engineering, Tel-Aviv University, Tel-Aviv, Israel. E-mail: shemer@eng.tau.ac.il

Abstract

Detailed investigation of wind-generated water waves in a 5-m-long wind wave flume facility is reported. Careful measurements were carried out at a large number of locations along the test section and at numerous airflow rates. The evolution of the wind wave field was investigated using appropriate dimensionless parameters. When possible, quantitative comparison with the results accumulated in field measurements and in larger laboratory facilities was performed. Particular attention was given to the evolution of wave frequency spectra along the tank, distinguishing between the frequency domain around the spectral peak and the high-frequency tail of the spectrum. Notable similarity between the parameters of the evolving wind wave field in the present facility and in field measurements was observed.

Corresponding author address: L. Shemer, School of Mechanical Engineering, Tel-Aviv University, Tel-Aviv, Israel. E-mail: shemer@eng.tau.ac.il
Save