Probabilistic wave forecast for week two and beyond based on NOAA’s Global Ensemble Forecast System

Ricardo M Campos 1 Lynker at Ocean Prediction Center, National Centers for Environmental Prediction, National Weather Service, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

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Darin Figurskey 2 Ocean Prediction Center, National Centers for Environmental Prediction, National Weather Service, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

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Avichal Mehra 2 Ocean Prediction Center, National Centers for Environmental Prediction, National Weather Service, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

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Joseph Sienkiewicz 2 Ocean Prediction Center, National Centers for Environmental Prediction, National Weather Service, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

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Abstract

In this paper we propose a new capability for an oceanic hazards outlook containing delineations of where winds and waves are expected to have the potential of posing a hazard to either life or property at sea. This new product is based on NOAA’s Global Ensemble Forecast System, focused on developing a probabilistic forecast of 10-meter wind speed (U10) and significant wave height (Hs) for week 2. The methodology involves defining temporal and spatial windows to post-process the ensemble members, analyzing the tail of the probability density function generated by the pooled dataset. Specific thresholds for U10 and Hs as well as probability levels are defined in the algorithm to generate probability maps. The performance is assessed through statistical validation using NDBC buoy data and reanalysis, followed by case studies. Results indicate that the probabilistic forecast is skillful in predicting waves up to 9 meters and winds up to 48 knots, particularly for extratropical systems. In addition, with weaker signals and lower probabilities forecasted, extreme extratropical events associated with hurricane-force winds could be in many cases successfully detected in the week 2 forecast. Therefore, the probability maps provide valuable guidance for practical applications, helping in decision-making for maritime operations.

© 2025 American Meteorological Society. This is an Author Accepted Manuscript distributed under the terms of the default AMS reuse license. For information regarding reuse and general copyright information, consult the AMS Copyright Policy (www.ametsoc.org/PUBSReuseLicenses).

* Corresponding Author, e-mail address: ricardo.campos@noaa.gov

Abstract

In this paper we propose a new capability for an oceanic hazards outlook containing delineations of where winds and waves are expected to have the potential of posing a hazard to either life or property at sea. This new product is based on NOAA’s Global Ensemble Forecast System, focused on developing a probabilistic forecast of 10-meter wind speed (U10) and significant wave height (Hs) for week 2. The methodology involves defining temporal and spatial windows to post-process the ensemble members, analyzing the tail of the probability density function generated by the pooled dataset. Specific thresholds for U10 and Hs as well as probability levels are defined in the algorithm to generate probability maps. The performance is assessed through statistical validation using NDBC buoy data and reanalysis, followed by case studies. Results indicate that the probabilistic forecast is skillful in predicting waves up to 9 meters and winds up to 48 knots, particularly for extratropical systems. In addition, with weaker signals and lower probabilities forecasted, extreme extratropical events associated with hurricane-force winds could be in many cases successfully detected in the week 2 forecast. Therefore, the probability maps provide valuable guidance for practical applications, helping in decision-making for maritime operations.

© 2025 American Meteorological Society. This is an Author Accepted Manuscript distributed under the terms of the default AMS reuse license. For information regarding reuse and general copyright information, consult the AMS Copyright Policy (www.ametsoc.org/PUBSReuseLicenses).

* Corresponding Author, e-mail address: ricardo.campos@noaa.gov
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