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Allison Ho
,
Sophia Merrifield
, and
Nick Pizzo

Abstract

Observations from Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP) moored buoys off the coast of Florida reveal tidally driven wave–current interactions that modify significant wave heights by up to 25% and shift peak periods by up to a second. A case study at Fernandina Beach, Florida, shows surface waves steepening on following tidal currents and becoming less steep on opposing tidal currents, with the largest modulations occurring in the long-period swell band. To better understand tidal modulations as a function of the phase of the tide, we use simplified analytical and numerical solutions to the equations of geometrical optics and conservation of wave action under the assumption of a one-dimensional tide acting as a progressive shallow-water wave. The theoretical frameworks allow us to identify parameters that characterize the magnitude of variation in surface waves due to tidally induced currents and changes in water depth. We compute modulations to the omnidirectional and directional wave spectrum (between 0.05 and 0.15 Hz), as well as characteristic bulk parameters such as significant wave height and peak period. The theory is corroborated using directional wave and surface current observations from the Fernandina Beach CDIP station (located in water of average depth of 16 m). We find that the numerical results reproduce the observed wave modulations due to tidal currents and changes in water depth. Specifically, surface waves traveling in the direction of the tide are strongly modulated, and the relative speeds between the tide and surface waves set the sign and magnitude of these modulations. Given knowledge of tidal currents, water-depth variations, and wave climatology, theoretical and numerical predictions may be used to provide both statistical and instantaneous estimates of wave-height variations due to tides. Because operational forecasts and nowcasts do not routinely include tides or currents, these findings can help to accurately represent nearshore surface wave variability.

Open access
Atousa Saberi
,
Lawrence J. Pratt
,
Thomas W. N. Haine
, and
Karl R. Helfrich

Abstract

Deep ocean passages are advantageous sites for long-term monitoring of deep transport and other physical properties relevant to climate. Rotating hydraulic theory provides potential for simplifying monitoring strategy by reducing the number of quantities that need to be measured. However, the applicability of these theories has been limited by idealizations such as restriction to zero or uniform potential vorticity (pv) and to channels with rectangular cross sections. Here the relationship between the flow characteristics in a canonical sea strait and its upstream condition is studied using uniform pv rotating hydraulic theory and a reduced-gravity shallow-water numerical model that allows for variation in pv. The paper is focused mainly on the sensitivity of the hydraulic solution to the strait geometry. We study the dynamics of channels with continuously varying (parabolic) cross sections to account for the rounded nature of sea-strait topographies and potentially improve monitoring strategies for realistic channel geometries. The results show that far enough from the channel entrance, the hydraulically controlled flow in the strait is insensitive to the basin circulation regardless of parabolic curvature. The controlled transport relation is derived for the case of uniform pv theory. Comparing the model to theory, we find that the measurement of the wetted edges of the interface height at the critical section can be used to estimate the volume flux. Based on this finding, we suggest three monitoring strategies for transport estimation and compare the estimates with the observed values at the Faroe Bank Channel. The results showed that the estimated transports are within the range of observed values.

Significance Statement

The paper investigates the relationship between the flow characteristics in an idealized sea strait and its upstream condition using rotating hydraulic theory and numerical modeling. We study the dynamics of channels with continuously varying (parabolic) cross sections to account for the rounded nature of sea-strait topographies and potentially improve monitoring strategies for realistic channel geometries. We suggest three monitoring strategies for transport estimation and apply the methods to the Faroe Bank Channel. Our estimates of dense water transport are within the range of observed values. This is significant, because the suggested monitoring strategies only require 1–3 measurements to estimate the transport at a given passage and can be used to guide observing systems.

Open access
Yunwei Yan
,
Xiangzhou Song
, and
Marilena Oltmanns

Abstract

High-frequency observations of surface winds over the open ocean are available only at limited locations. However, these observations are essential for assessing atmospheric influences on the ocean, validating reanalysis products, and building parameterization schemes. By analyzing high-frequency measurements from the Global Tropical Moored Buoy Array, the effects of subdaily winds on the mean surface wind stress magnitude are systematically examined. Subdaily winds account for 12.4% of the total stress magnitude on average. The contribution is enhanced over the intertropical convergence zone and reaches a maximum (28.5%) in the equatorial western Pacific. The magnitude of the contribution is primarily determined by the kinetic energy of subdaily winds. Compared to the buoy observations, the ERA5 and MERRA2 subdaily winds underestimate this contribution by 51% and 63% due to underestimations of subdaily kinetic energy, leading to 7% and 8% underestimations in the total stress magnitude, respectively. Two new gustiness parameterization schemes related to precipitation are developed to account for the effect of subdaily winds, explaining ∼80% of the contribution from subdaily winds. Considering the importance of wind stress for ocean–atmosphere interactions, the inclusion of these parameterization schemes in climate models is expected to substantially improve simulations of large-scale climate variability.

Significance Statement

Surface wind stress drives upper-ocean circulation, which is critical for the redistribution of mass, momentum, and energy in the ocean. Moreover, it is one of the key factors controlling oceanic turbulent mixing and therefore has significant impacts on the distribution of temperature, salinity, and associated ocean variability. Using high-resolution buoy observations, this study highlights the importance of subdaily winds for integrated wind stress estimates. In addition, it finds that current state-of-the-art and widely used reanalysis products largely underestimate the effect of subdaily winds. Two new parameterization schemes are developed, leading to a better representation of the effect of subdaily winds. Including the proposed parameterization schemes in climate models is expected to substantially improve their simulations of large-scale climate variability.

Restricted access
Ken X. Zhao
,
Andrew L. Stewart
,
James C. McWilliams
,
Ian G. Fenty
, and
Eric J. Rignot

Abstract

Glacial fjord circulation modulates the connection between marine-terminating glaciers and the ocean currents offshore. These fjords exhibit a complex 3D circulation with overturning and horizontal recirculation components, which are both primarily driven by water mass transformation at the head of the fjord via subglacial discharge plumes and distributed meltwater plumes. However, little is known about the 3D circulation in realistic fjord geometries. In this study, we present high-resolution numerical simulations of three glacial fjords (Ilulissat, Sermilik, and Kangerdlugssuaq), which exhibit along-fjord overturning circulations similar to previous studies. However, one important new phenomenon that deviates from previous results is the emergence of multiple standing eddies in each of the simulated fjords, as a result of realistic fjord geometries. These standing eddies are long-lived, take months to spin up, and prefer locations over the widest regions of deep-water fjords, with some that periodically merge with other eddies. The residence time of Lagrangian particles within these eddies are significantly larger than waters outside of the eddies. These eddies are most significant for two reasons: 1) they account for a majority of the vorticity dissipation required to balance the vorticity generated by discharge and meltwater plume entrainment and act to spin down the overall recirculation and 2) if the eddies prefer locations near the ice face, their azimuthal velocities can significantly increase melt rates. Therefore, the existence of standing eddies is an important factor to consider in glacial fjord circulation and melt rates and should be taken into account in models and observations.

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Xiangpeng Wang
,
Yan Du
,
Yuhong Zhang
,
Tianyu Wang
,
Minyang Wang
, and
Zhiyou Jing

Abstract

Subsurface eddies are a special type of oceanic eddy that display the maximum velocity in the subsurface layer. Based on field observations, a lens-shaped subsurface anticyclonic eddy (SAE) was detected in the northern South China Sea (SCS) in May 2021. The SAE was located between 20 and 200 m, with a shoaling of the seasonal thermocline and deepening of the main thermocline. Satellite images showed that the SAE exhibited positive sea level anomaly (SLA) and negative sea surface temperature (SST) anomaly. Eddy track indicated that this SAE originated from the Luzon Strait and was generated in the Kuroshio Loop Current (KLC) last winter. The evolution of the SAE was related to the anomalous water properties inside the eddy and the seasonal change of sea surface heat flux. In winter, the continuous surface cooling and Kuroshio intrusion led to a cold, salty core in the upper part of the anticyclonic eddy, which resulted in a subsurface-intensified structure through geostrophic adjustment. As the season changed from winter to spring, sea surface temperature increased. The lens-shaped structure was formed when the seasonal thermocline appeared near the surface that capped the winter well-mixed water inside the eddy. From 1993 to 2021, nearly half of the winter KLC shedding eddies (12/25) survived to late spring and evolved into subsurface lens-shaped structures. This result indicates that the transition of KLC shedding eddy to SAE is a common phenomenon in the northern SCS, which is potentially important for local air–sea interaction, heat–salt balance, and biogeochemical processes.

Significance Statement

Subsurface eddies are lens-shaped eddies with anomalous water properties in the subsurface layer. While such eddies have been reported in many regions of the World Ocean, they are poorly investigated in the SCS, especially the periodic subsurface eddies that appear in a fixed time frame with similar patterns and trajectories. This study reported a subsurface anticyclonic eddy (SAE) in the northern SCS and elucidated its generation and evolution processes. Statistical results confirm that this is a periodic SAE, which occurs nearly annually in late spring and evolves from the Kuroshio shedding eddy with seasonal changes. This study provides a new perspective on the evolution of subsurface eddies in the SCS and will benefit targeted observations in the future.

Restricted access
Ling Ling Liu
,
Rui Xin Huang
, and
Fan Wang

Abstract

A new three-dimensional method is proposed for calculating the annual mean subduction and obduction rate in the ocean and applied to the North Pacific Ocean. Due to the beta spiral, the subducted/obducted water at a given station can spread over/come from a wide range with different densities in the subsurface ocean. This new method can provide the three-dimensional feature of subduction/obduction and more accurate distribution of the annual subduction/obduction rate in density space. The spatial patterns of annual subduction/obduction rate obtained from both the classical and new methods are similar, although at individual stations the rate can be different; however, the new 3D method can greatly improve the density structure of subducted/obducted water mass. In spite of the assumption of idealized fluid in most previous studies, our analysis showed that subducted water masses can change their density due to diapycnal mixing, especially for water masses subducted at relatively shallow depths. In the North Pacific, the subduction process mainly takes place for about 1–2 months in most of the subtropical basin, while the time window for obduction is ∼100 days in the major obduction regions. Based on the SODA monthly mean climatology, the subducted/obducted water in the North Pacific is primarily distributed at depths of 80–120 m.

Significance Statement

The annual mean subduction/obduction rate is a term quantifying the large-scale irreversible downward/upward water transport between the mixed layer and the permanent pycnocline; these processes are crucially important for climate and the biogeochemical cycle in the oceans. However, the widely used classical Lagrangian method for calculating the annual subduction/obduction rate does not take the three-dimensional structure of ocean currents into consideration, which may induce errors in the destinations/sources of subducted/obducted water masses and the associated water properties. This study is focused on refining the three-dimensional features of subduction/obduction and providing a more accurate distribution of the annual subduction/obduction rate in the density space. In addition, the time window for subduction/obduction and the distribution of subducted/obducted water in the ocean interior are explored based on the SODA monthly mean climatology.

Open access
Peter A. E. M. Janssen
and
Jean-Raymond Bidlot

Abstract

In this paper, we revisit the problem of wind–wave interaction with emphasis on strong winds. For these events, it is assumed that nonlinearity is so large that the slope of the wind waves has reached a limiting steepness. Recent observations suggest that the drag decreases with wind in the strong wind speed regime. In this paper, we try to explain this. In the first step, we introduce a model for surface gravity waves and calculate explicitly the background roughness length from the original approach of Janssen. It is found that for young, steep wind sea, the background roughness length almost vanishes, giving a reduced drag. In addition, it is shown that for steep waves, the slowing down of the wind by waves is a nonlinear process; hence, the growth rate of the waves by wind depends in a nonlinear fashion on the wave spectrum. For strong winds, it is found that, as waves are typically steep, this nonlinear effect gives a further reduction of the wind input. As a consequence, in these extreme circumstances, the drag coefficient decreases with wind.

Restricted access
Michael A. Spall

Abstract

The circulation within marginal seas subject to periodic winds, and their exchange with the open ocean, are explored using idealized numerical models and theory. This is motivated by the strong seasonal cycle in winds over the Nordic Seas and the exchange with the subpolar North Atlantic Ocean through the Denmark Strait and Faroe Bank Channel. Two distinct regimes are identified: an interior with closed f/h contours and a shallow shelf region that connects to the open ocean. The interior develops a strong oscillating along-topography circulation with weaker ageostrophic radial flows. The relative importance of the bottom Ekman layer and interior ageostrophic flows depends only on ωh/Cd , where ω is the forcing frequency, h is the bottom depth, and Cd is a linear bottom drag coefficient. The dynamics on the shelf are controlled by the frictional decay of coastal waves over an along-shelf scale Ly = f 0 LsHs /Cd , where f 0 is the Coriolis parameter, and Ls and Hs are the shelf width and depth. For Ly much less than the perimeter of the basin, the surface Ekman transport is provided primarily by overturning within the marginal sea and there is little exchange with the open ocean. For Ly on the order of the basin perimeter or larger, most of the Ekman transport is provided from outside the marginal sea with an opposite exchange through the deep part of the strait. This demonstrates a direct connection between the dynamics of coastal waves on the shelf and the exchange of deep waters through the strait, some of which is derived from below sill depth.

Significance Statement

The purpose of this study is to understand how winds over marginal seas, which are semienclosed bodies of water around the perimeter of ocean basins, can force an exchange of water, heat, salt, and other tracers through narrow straits between the marginal sea and the open ocean. Understanding this exchange is important because marginal seas are often regions of net heat, freshwater, and carbon exchange with the atmosphere. The present results identify a direct connection between processes along the coast of the marginal sea and the flow of waters through deep straits into the open ocean.

Restricted access
C. A. Luecke
,
H. W. Wijesekera
,
E. Jarosz
,
D. W. Wang
,
T. G. Jensen
,
S. U. P. Jinadasa
,
H. J. S. Fernando
, and
W. J. Teague

Abstract

The formation of a sharp oceanic front located south-southeast of Sri Lanka during the southwest monsoon is examined through in situ and remote observations and high-resolution model output. Remote sensing and model output reveal that the front extends approximately 200 km eastward from the southeast coast of Sri Lanka toward the southern Bay of Bengal (BoB). This annually occurring front is associated with the boundary between the southwest monsoon current with high-salinity water to the south, and a weak flow field comprised of relatively fresh BoB water to the north. The front contains a line of high chlorophyll extending from the coastal upwelling zone, often for several hundred kilometers. Elevated turbulent diffusivities ∼10−2 m2 s−1 along with large diapycnal fluxes of heat and salt were found within the front. The formation of the front and vertical transports are linked to local wind stress curl. Large vertical velocities (∼50 m day−1) indicate the importance of ageostrophic, submesoscale processes. To examine these processes, the Ertel potential vorticity (PV) was computed using the observations and numerical model output. The model output shows a ribbon of negative PV along the front between the coastal upwelling zone and two eddies (Sri Lanka Dome and an anticyclonic eddy) typically found in the southern BoB. PV estimates support the view that the flow is susceptible to submesoscale instabilities, which in turn generate high vertical velocities within the front. Frontal upwelling and heightened mixing show that the seasonal front is regionally important to linking the fresh surface water of the BoB with the Arabian Sea.

Significance Statement

Within the ocean, motions span extraordinarily wide ranges of sizes and time scales. In this study we focus on a narrow, intensified feature called a front. This front occurs in the southern Bay of Bengal during the summer monsoon and forms a boundary between fresher water to the north and saltier water to the south. Features such as this are difficult to study, however, by combining observations made from ships and satellites with output from numerical models of the ocean, we are able to better understand the front. This is important because fronts like the one studied here play a role in determining the pathways of heat within the ocean, which, in turn, may feedback into the atmosphere and weather patterns.

Open access
Aleksey Marchenko
and
Zygmunt Kowalik

Abstract

Around Hopen Island, the satellite images and experiments with drifting buoys describe the movement of the drifting ice and depict tidally generated trapped motion. An analytical solution is applied to investigate the trapping phenomenon. A general solution is achieved by the superposition of the incident and reflected (scattered) waves for an elliptically shaped island above the critical latitude. The incident wave simulates the tidal wave propagation toward the island and its prominent feature, an amphidromic point located to the southeast from Hopen Island. The analytical solution for the reflected wave is constructed in elliptic coordinates. Tide amplitudes and cophase lines are analyzed in the island’s vicinity and compared to observations and numerical model results. A simulated drift of Lagrangian water particles constructed with the help of analytical solutions reproduces well the observed clockwise trapped motion of the drifting buoy near Hopen Island. Since the resonance may amplify the semidiurnal incident tide, we have also investigated the natural modes of water oscillations near the island. While this paper focuses on the details of the model used at the specific site of Hopen Island, a similar trapping analysis can be applied to circular or elliptic islands that have a small scale relative to the barotropic Rossby deformation radius.

Significance Statement

This study aims to understand how the semidiurnal tide propagates and generates strong currents near Hopen Island in the Barents Sea. The trapping of the semidiurnal (M2) tide around Hopen Island leads to an organized dipole structure in sea level, which rotates clockwise. The dipole generates maximum amplitudes of water surface elevation and the strong current near the south and north tips of the island. The abrupt sea level change induced by the dipole sets up often violent currents, which, together with drifting ice, can be dangerous for navigation. The strong tidal currents generate permanent clockwise circulation around the islands, which is essential for biological life and waste disposal as material disposed of near the islands will be trapped for an extended time. Our investigation elucidates the role of dipoles in the local enhancement of tides around the islands.

Restricted access