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Peygham Ghaffari and Jan Erik H. Weber

1. Introduction In recent years the interest in coastally trapped waves, for example, the Stokes edge wave, has risen considerably. This is particularly so because they have been shown to be of fundamental importance in the dynamics and the sedimentology of the nearshore zone through their interaction with ocean swell and surf to produce rip current patterns, beach cusps, and crescentic bars ( LeBlond and Mysak 1978 ). The nonlinear mean mass transport in such waves has also been investigated

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Hidenori Aiki and Richard J. Greatbatch

1. Introduction In the theory for surface gravity waves, the Lagrangian mean transport by the Stokes drift has been known for more than 150 years ( Stokes 1847 ) whereas it is only in relatively recent times that the importance of Lagrangian transport by ocean mesoscale eddies has been appreciated. In both cases, the Stokes or eddy-induced velocities are corrections to an Eulerian mean (EM) velocity to account for the difference between Eulerian and Lagrangian mean motions. In the theory of

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Jan Erik H. Weber, Göran Broström, and Øyvind Saetra

1. Introduction It is a well-known fact that surface waves carry mean momentum ( Stokes 1847 ). For monochromatic waves in a viscous nonrotating fluid, the pioneering paper on this subject is Longuet-Higgins (1953) . He applied an Eulerian fluid description with curvilinear coordinates to solve this problem. For a direct Lagrangian approach to wave drift in a rotating ocean, earlier treatments are found in Chang (1969) , Ünlüata and Mei (1970) , and Weber (1983) . Also, the generalized

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Irena Vaňková and David M. Holland

1. Introduction Calving-generated ocean waves are tsunami-like waves, which have the potential to cause sudden and large mixing events and affect melt rates at the glacier ocean interface. Furthermore, waves generated at the open ocean have been hypothesized to have an influence on calving. Tides or other long-period nontidal components of sea level (i.e., surges) put the glacier out of buoyant equilibrium and increase stresses, both of which can trigger calving. Bending forces due to

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Jerome A. Smith and Coralie Brulefert

–floating instrument platform (R/P FLIP ), in conjunction with the near-field leg of the Hawaiian Ocean-Mixing Experiment (HOME-NF). The R/P FLIP was moored over the Kaena Ridge just off Oahu, Hawaii, where the water depth is about 1000 m, increasing to well over 4000 m off either side of the ridge (see Fig. 1 ). In addition to the LRPADS data, many other measurements were made from R/P FLIP . These include wind, surface wave elevation spectra, and conductivity, temperature, and depth (CTD; with which

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Adrian H. Callaghan

1. Introduction Wind-driven breaking waves are ubiquitous throughout the global oceans and seas and occur in a variety of forms in all but the calmest of sea states. Wave breaking limits the height of individual waves, generates turbulence that helps mix the upper ocean, entrains air that drives bubble-mediated ocean–atmosphere exchange processes, and generates extreme surface flows ( Melville 1996 ). Predicting and measuring the occurrence, severity, and scale of breaking waves remain active

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Paul A. Hwang and Edward J. Walsh

1. Introduction National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) hurricane reconnaissance and research missions combined active and passive microwave sensors to obtain simultaneous wind and wave measurements inside hurricanes ( Wright et al. 2001 ; Walsh et al. 2002 ; Moon et al. 2003 ; Black et al. 2007 ; Fan et al. 2009b ). For surface wave measurements, the NOAA WP-3D aircraft carried an airborne scanning radar altimeter (SRA) to obtain the 3D ocean surface topography, from which

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Eric Danioux, Patrice Klein, Matthew W. Hecht, Nobumasa Komori, Guillaume Roullet, and Sylvie Le Gentil

1. Introduction Strong near-inertial waves (NIWs) (with frequency close to the Coriolis frequency f ) are observed in all realistic global or basin-scale ocean models forced by winds that possess energy in the f band. These models further reveal—particularly at midlatitudes where mesoscale oceanic eddies are ubiquitous—a maximum of near-inertial vertical velocity below 2000 m with O (100 km) scales, a frequency peak at f , and a secondary 2 f frequency peak ( Furuichi et al. 2008 ; Hecht

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Yuki Tanaka and Toshiyuki Hibiya

1. Introduction Tropical instability waves (TIWs) are prominent mesoscale features observed in the eastern to central equatorial Pacific Ocean. They are most distinctly identified as meanders in the sea surface temperature (SST) front just north of the equator and are also seen in terms of temperature, salinity, and velocity fluctuations in the depth range from the sea surface down to the thermocline and in the latitude range from ~5°S to ~10°N ( Legeckis 1977 ; Qiao and Weisberg 1995

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Malcolm E. Scully, John H. Trowbridge, and Alexander W. Fisher

1. Introduction Near the ocean’s surface, most field observations of the dissipation rate of turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) in the presence of surface gravity waves exceed values expected based on rigid boundary layer scaling ( Kitaigorodskii 1983 ; Agrawal et al. 1992 ; Anis and Moum 1995 ; Drennan et al. 1996 ; Terray et al. 1996 ; Gemmrich 2010 ). It is traditionally assumed that the elevated rates of dissipation are the result of the convergence in the vertical transport of TKE driven

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