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P. B. Smit and T. T. Janssen

1. Introduction The dynamics and statistics of ocean waves are important, for example, for upper-ocean dynamics (e.g., Craik and Leibovich 1976 ; Smith 2006 ; Aiki and Greatbatch 2011 ), air–sea interaction (e.g., Janssen 2009 ), ocean circulation (e.g., McWilliams and Restrepo 1999 ), and wave-driven circulation and transport processes (e.g., Hoefel and Elgar 2003 ; Svendsen 2006 ). Modern stochastic wave models are routinely applied to a wide range of oceanic scales, both in open-ocean

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Alexander V. Babanin, Jason McConochie, and Dmitry Chalikov

1. Introduction Modeling and measurements of the winds over the ocean surface are important in engineering, geophysics, remote sensing, and other metocean applications. The wind-wave/current interactions, or more generally air–sea energy and momentum exchanges, happen directly at the ocean interface, but measuring wind speeds and momentum right at the surface is difficult in field conditions, particularly at heavy seas which are usually of the main interest. Therefore, the 10-m elevation is

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Jerome A. Smith

1. Introduction Although first described over 100 years ago (e.g., Pidduck 1912 ), there has been a recent rekindling of interest in oceanic acoustic–gravity surface waves, in particular in the context of tsunamis (e.g., Stiassnie 2010 ; Kadri and Stiassnie 2012 ; Hendin and Stiassnie 2013 ; Abdolali et al. 2015 ; Cecioni et al. 2015 ). It has also been suggested that they can contribute to deep water transport ( Kadri 2014 ). The original derivation is a bit hard to follow, so in the

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S. Y. Annenkov and V. I. Shrira

1. Introduction For practical applications, it is important to know the probability of wave height in seas and oceans at a given place and time. It is essential to predict the probability density function (PDF) of surface elevations, along with the meteorological forecasting (e.g., Goda 2000 ). If a wave field is linear, it obeys the Gaussian statistics, and the wave heights follow the Rayleigh distribution, under the additional assumption of the narrowbandedness of the energy spectrum ( Rice

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Fanglou Liao and Xiao Hua Wang

important in coastal oceanic variabilities on time scales between the local inertial period and atmospheric weather changes over the continental margins ( Brink 1991 ; Ding et al. 2012 ), as they are generally excited by the alongshore wind stress ( Adams and Buchwald 1969 ). Assuming no stratification and a variable shelf bottom, the low-frequency wind-forced coastal responses generally exist as continental shelf waves (CSWs), whereas in a stratified ocean with a flat shelf bottom and a lateral

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Dejun Dai, Fangli Qiao, Wojciech Sulisz, Lei Han, and Alexander Babanin

1. Introduction Energy input from wind to the surface waves, integrated over the World Ocean, is about 60 TW ( Wang and Huang 2004 ). Such a large amount of energy will dissipate and cause mixing in the ocean mixed layer. Qiao et al. (2004) proposed a parameterization scheme for the nonbreaking surface-wave-induced vertical mixing (NBWAIM), and numerical experiments show that this parameterization can significantly improve the performance of the ocean circulation models ( Qiao et al. 2004

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Nirnimesh Kumar, Douglas L. Cahl, Sean C. Crosby, and George Voulgaris

1. Introduction Surface gravity waves are important drivers for coastal circulation and upper open-ocean mixing. Wave-induced mass flux (i.e., Stokes drift u St ; Stokes 1847 ) affects multiple processes in the marine environment. In an alongshore uniform bathymetry, Stokes drift–induced mass flux leads to offshore-directed undertow in the surfzone and the inner shelf (e.g., Lentz et al. 2008 ). Stokes drift and mean velocity shear interaction (i.e., vortex force; Craik and Leibovich 1976

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Greg Holloway

906 JOURNAL OF PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY VOLUME 10Oceanic Internal Waves Are Not Weak Waves GREG HOLLOWAYDepartment of Oceanography, University of Washington, Seattle 98195(Manuscript received 9 October 1979, in final form 29 February 1980)ABSTRACT It is shown that the oceanic internal wave field is too energetic' by roughly two orders of magnitudeto be treated theoretically as an assemblage of weakly interacting waves

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Matthew H. Alford

1. Introduction Near-inertial internal waves (NIW) are known to dominate internal wave kinetic energy and shear spectra at all depths in the ocean ( Alford and Whitmont 2007 ; Silverthorne and Toole 2009 ). Because NIW energy ( Alford and Whitmont 2007 ) and parameterized mixing ( Whalen et al. 2018 ) both show strong seasonal cycles, a reasonable hypothesis is that wind-generated near-inertial waves contribute significantly to ocean mixing. In attempts to quantify the energy input of NIW, a

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Carl Wunsch

motions. A significant fraction of the energy exists, however, at large distances from this line, including that of eastward-going motions (20% of the total is eastward, 70% is westward, and 9% is indistinguishable from standing wave energy). The nondispersive line is nearly tangent to the first baroclinic mode dispersion curve (shown in the figure) near zero ( k , s ) and intersects the barotropic dispersion curve at large ( k , s ). This behavior appears to be typical of much of the ocean, but

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