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Carl Wunsch

motions. A significant fraction of the energy exists, however, at large distances from this line, including that of eastward-going motions (20% of the total is eastward, 70% is westward, and 9% is indistinguishable from standing wave energy). The nondispersive line is nearly tangent to the first baroclinic mode dispersion curve (shown in the figure) near zero ( k , s ) and intersects the barotropic dispersion curve at large ( k , s ). This behavior appears to be typical of much of the ocean, but

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Francesco Fedele and Felice Arena

1. Introduction Stochastic modeling of time series of the significant wave height H s recorded at a given ocean site is the principal focus of statistical methods employed in the long-term prediction of extreme wave events during sea storms ( Krogstad 1985 ; Prevosto et al. 2000 ; Boccotti 2000 ). The reviews of several methods used for this can be found in the work of Isaacson and Mackenzie (1981) , Guedes Soares (1989) , and Goda (1999) . In these methods, the effects of the sea state

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Johanna H. Rosman and Gregory P. Gerbi

2001 ; Feddersen et al. 2007 ) by considering a more realistic turbulence spectrum that includes a rolloff at energy-containing scales. The general frozen turbulence approach is used to transform model turbulence κ spectra to ω spectra observed at a point when the turbulence is advected by waves and current. We systematically vary the current, wave properties, and turbulence properties across a wide parameter space that spans conditions in the coastal ocean, extending the work of Gerbi et al

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Ziming Ke and Alexander E. Yankovsky

1. Introduction A full set of barotropic long waves trapped in the coastal ocean over a variable topography includes a zero (fundamental) mode that exists at both subinertial and superinertial frequencies and propagates with the coast on its right (left) in the Northern (Southern) Hemisphere (hereinafter, we refer to this direction as downstream) (e.g., Huthnance 1975 ). This zero mode resembles a Kelvin wave at lower, near- or subinertial frequencies and an edge wave (Stokes mode) at high

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Lee-Lueng Fu

; Saraceno et al. 2004 ). In the center of the basin there is an intense anticyclonic gyre of barotropic circulation transporting water at a rate of 140 Sv (1 Sv ≡ 10 6 m 3 s −1 ) around the Zapiola Rise, a sediment ridge at the ocean’s bottom ( Saunders and King 1995 ; de Miranda et al. 1999 ). Superimposed on the gyre are rapidly rotating barotropic waves around the Zapiola Rise with a period close to 25 days ( Fu et al. 2001 ). These dynamical processes of wide-ranging spatial and temporal scales

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Björn Carlsson, Yiannis Papadimitrakis, and Anna Rutgersson

1. Introduction The ocean–atmosphere momentum exchange is important for many atmospheric and oceanic processes. In wave and ocean modeling, as well as in atmospheric modeling, it is essential to model this exchange correctly. The momentum flux or the wind stress, τ , is governed by the roughness of the sea surface, which is usually described by the roughness length z 0 . Over land z 0 is determined by the form and height of more or less solid roughness elements. On the contrary, the sea

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L. Zavala Sansón

1. Introduction This paper examines the properties of subinertial coastal-trapped waves in the ocean according to simple barotropic models. In the absence of stratification, these oscillations are mainly affected by both the earth’s rotation and the shape of the bottom topography. Subinertial topographic waves are also referred to as continental shelf waves, and they travel along the coast with shallow water to the right (left) in the Northern (Southern) Hemisphere. In this sense, the

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James C. McWilliams, Edward Huckle, Junhong Liang, and Peter P. Sullivan

1. Introduction The wind blows and the waves rise and roll on. This is the regime of Langmuir turbulence in the oceanic surface boundary layer (BL), so-called because Langmuir circulations (often recognized by the windrows in the surfactants they cause) are the primary turbulent eddies whose vertical momentum and buoyancy fluxes maintain the mean ageostrophic current and density stratification. Langmuir circulations arise from the instability of wind-driven boundary layer shear in the presence

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Juan M. Restrepo, Jorge M. Ramírez, James C. McWilliams, and Michael Banner

1. Introduction After the wind has been acting on the ocean surface for some time, the amplitude of the fastest growing wave component can reach a critical unstable steepness for which whitecapping occurs (for details and references see Banner and Peregrine 1993 ). We refer to the process of steepening, whitecapping, and changing amplitude as wave breaking. These short-lived, spatiotemporally random events reduce the excess energy in the wave field and modify the momentum of the background

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Ramsey R. Harcourt and Eric A. D’Asaro

1. Introduction Exchanges of heat, water, momentum, and chemical species between the atmosphere and the ocean interior are mediated by mixing within the upper ocean boundary layer. This study seeks to quantify the role of surface waves in setting the level of turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) in this layer. This TKE level figures prominently in many ocean boundary layer models, including turbulence closure schemes of Mellor and Yamada (1982) and the K -profle parameterization (KPP; Large et al

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