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Norden E. Huang, Steven R. Long, and L. F. Bliven


The significant slope of a random wave field is found to be an important parameter in empirical wind-wave studies. This significant slope Ss is defined as Ss = (ζ2)½0, with ζ2 as the mean-square surface elevation and λ0 as the wavelength corresponding to the waves at the peak of the spectrum. With this parameter, the relationship between and ñ is reduced to an identity expressing a pure geometric measure of the sea state, because Ẽñ 4 = (2πSs)2. By applying the significant slope as a parameter explicitly, we proposed that the traditional empirical formulas relating the nondimensional energy , fetch and frequency ñ be combined into a single unified relationship as Ẽñ/ = (9/40)Ss9/4. This unified empirical formula governs the wind-wave data equally as well in the field as in the laboratory.

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Norden E. Huang, Hsing H. Shih, Zheng Shen, Steven R. Long, and Kuang L. Fan


Using a process denoted here as the empirical mode decomposition and the Hilbert spectral analysis, the ages of the seiches on the Caribbean coast of Puerto Rico are determined from their dispersion characteristics with respect to time. The ages deduced from this method are less than a day; therefore, the seiches could be locally generated.

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