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- Author or Editor: A. J. Kuik x
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Abstract
From the premise that the net growth of wave energy induced by wind is centered around the wind direction, a relaxation model for the response of the main wave direction to changes in the wind direction for young sea states is derived. The time scale of this relaxation model is found to be equal to the time scale of the wave energy growth. A quantitative version of the model, based on universal growth rates of the waves under the local wind is found to be consistent with observations obtained in this study and with a published dataset.
Abstract
From the premise that the net growth of wave energy induced by wind is centered around the wind direction, a relaxation model for the response of the main wave direction to changes in the wind direction for young sea states is derived. The time scale of this relaxation model is found to be equal to the time scale of the wave energy growth. A quantitative version of the model, based on universal growth rates of the waves under the local wind is found to be consistent with observations obtained in this study and with a published dataset.
Abstract
A simple, computationally efficient method is proposed as a standard procedure for the routine analysis of pitch-and-roll buoy wave data. The method yields four directional model-free parameters per frequency: the mean direction, the directional width, the skewness, and the kurtosis of the directional energy distribution. For most applications these parameters provide sufficient directional information. The estimation procedure and error characteristics of the parameter estimates are discussed and illustrated with computer simulated data. An optional interpretation of the combination of skewness and kurtosis as an indicator of uni-modality of the directional energy distribution is suggested and illustrated with field observations.
Abstract
A simple, computationally efficient method is proposed as a standard procedure for the routine analysis of pitch-and-roll buoy wave data. The method yields four directional model-free parameters per frequency: the mean direction, the directional width, the skewness, and the kurtosis of the directional energy distribution. For most applications these parameters provide sufficient directional information. The estimation procedure and error characteristics of the parameter estimates are discussed and illustrated with computer simulated data. An optional interpretation of the combination of skewness and kurtosis as an indicator of uni-modality of the directional energy distribution is suggested and illustrated with field observations.
