1. Introduction
It is well known that fluctuations in the turbulent atmosphere couple with the underlying water surface to grow surface waves (e.g., Phillips 1977), where the scale, phase, and speed of the wave field ultimately depends on the strength and mean wind direction. High winds in one location can generate large, rapidly traveling waves that can persist over extended periods and travel great distances such that at any given location, the current wave state is rarely in strict wind–wave equilibrium (e.g., Hanley et al. 2010). Wind–wave equilibrium is realized when winds blow with sufficient stationarity that the wave spectrum does not change with fetch (or distance from shore), that is, the wind input is balanced by wave dissipation and nonlinear interactions in the wave action equation (e.g., Csanady 2001).
Recent observations (e.g., Grachev and Fairall 2001; Rutgersson et al. 2001; Smedman et al. 2009; Edson et al. 2013), turbulence closure modeling (e.g., Li et al. 2000; Hanley and Belcher 2008), and turbulence-resolving simulations (e.g., Sullivan et al. 2008, 2014) all show that these fast-moving water waves generated far from shore (i.e., swell) impact boundary layer winds by imparting an upward flux of momentum from the ocean to the atmosphere. Nonequilibrium waves modify the relationship between the surface and winds aloft. The marine atmospheric boundary layer typically exhibits much shallower depths than those occurring over land, particularly during daytime periods; hence, the character of the underlying surface is felt though a much greater percentage of the marine atmospheric boundary layer than of the atmospheric boundary layer over land.
Many models of wind–wave coupling rely on an equilibrium wind–wave assumption that is generally not achieved in coastal zones where future U.S. offshore turbine deployments are likely to be located (Hanley et al. 2010; Semedo et al. 2011). Coastal regions especially depart from wind–wave equilibrium due to 1) diurnal forcing associated with the daily sea breeze, 2) a shallow water column which limits wave growth, and 3) distant storms generating high-amplitude swell that arrives in coastal regions often dominating the local wave state.
Analysis of winds and turbulence over swell-dominated surfaces has generally underappreciated the nonlocal origin of swell and the frequent misalignment of the swell propagation direction with the wind. Geernaert (1988) and Geernaert et al. (1993) interrogated this question via observations in the North Sea and found that swell frequently travels in directions different from the wind and speculated this results in misaligned stress and wind vectors which has ramifications for applying Monin–Obukhov similarity theory (MOST). Larsén et al. (2003) found during weak winds that surface drag depends strongly on sea state and neglecting cross-swell effects leads to an underestimate of surface stress for periods with large ϕ (i.e., the angle between the mean 10-m wind direction and the propagation direction of the swell). How surface stress responds to misaligned surface waves and how to incorporate the atmospheric response in parameterizations remains unclear.
Marine atmospheric boundary layer parameterizations are currently used 1) to correlate buoy measurements with the wind and turbulence profiles aloft and 2) to represent the dynamical coupling between the overlying flow and the water surface in numerical weather prediction models. Current parameterizations do not account for the coupled influences of stratification and nonequilibrium wave states on the marine boundary layer structure. Recent studies (e.g., Tambke et al. 2005) show that parameterizations used to represent marine boundary layer winds/turbulence commonly result in a significant root-mean-square error (RMSE; ~3 m s−1 for a 48-h forecast). Substantial deviations from expected wind profile shapes were observed across a wide range of atmospheric stability conditions. Such errors indicate that current approaches to modeling the marine atmospheric boundary layer [i.e., those based on simple power law wind profile assumptions such as Wind Atlas Analysis and Application Program (WAsP), or on MOST] do not accurately account for wind–wave coupling (Smedman et al. 2009). Power produced by wind turbines is proportional to wind speed cubed, and significant uncertainty in hub-height wind forecasts is not acceptable for operational use.
This paper uses a combination of turbulence-resolving large-eddy simulations (LESs) and observations to examine the atmospheric response under nonequilibrium wave states. The analysis illuminates the nonlinear coupling between winds and waves, and this information is further used to modify the roughness model in an existing surface layer parameterization. The surface roughness modifications account for swell amplitude and wavelength and its relative motion with respect to the mean wind direction.
The open source WRF model (Skamarock et al. 2008) is widely used for wind resource analysis and forecasting and serves as a platform to test modifications to the Mellor–Yamada–Nakanishi–Niino (MYNN) boundary layer parameterization (Nakanishi and Niino 2004) incorporating wave effects. The newly implemented parameterization is tested in three-dimensional WRF simulations at grid sizes near 1 km to identify the parameterization’s impact on simulated atmospheric boundary layer (ABL)-scale winds at mesoscale resolutions.
2. FINO1 observations
a. Data description
Since 2003, FuE-Zentrum FH Kiel GmbH (2013) has collected nearly continuous observations at Forschungsplattformen in Nord- und Ostsee Nr. 1 (FINO1) located 45 km north of Borkum Island, Germany (54°0′53.5″N, 6°35′15.5″E). The water depth at FINO1 is ~30 m. Wind speed is measured at eight levels using Vector Instruments cup anemometers sampled at 1 Hz at heights ranging from 34 to 101 m above sea level. Wind direction is measured with Adolf Thies GmbH and Co. KG wind vanes at four levels from 34 to 91.5 m above the sea surface. The cup anemometer booms face southeast, and three additional sonic anemometer booms face northwest measuring three wind velocity components at 30, 50, and 70 m, so unobstructed wind speed measurements can be constructed under a wide range of wind directions. The booms holding the instrumentation range in length from 3 to 6.5 m in an attempt to mitigate the impact of the somewhat bulky FINO1 tower infrastructure. Comparisons between lidar measurements (a Leosphere Windcube WL07) and the cup anemometers over a full year at FINO1 demonstrate that if one excludes wind directions between 290° and 350° then the lidar and cup anemometer measurements show high correlation with R2 values higher than 0.99 for both speed and direction (Westerhellweg et al. 2010). For the other wind sectors, Westerhellweg et al. (2012) applied a “Uniform Ambient Flow” method to derive functions correcting for potential tower-infrastructure-induced pressure forces that could impact the observations; the amplitude of these corrections is small—falling between 2% and 4% or smaller, which is well within the range of calibration uncertainty. We are therefore reasonably confident that the tower infrastructure does not significantly impact the wind profile observations used in our study.
Hourly measurements of significant wave height, mean wave direction, and peak wave direction located at 54°0′51″N, 6°35′11″E are collected using a Nortek Acoustic Wave and Current (AWAC) meter mounted on the sea floor. Bundesamt für Seeschifffahrt und Hydrographie (2016) describes further sensor information for FINO1. Data from the FINO1 tower serve both to motivate the analysis of swell-propagation direction influence on surface drag and as a dataset to evaluate the impact of a new parameterization.
b. Winds and waves climatology
Analysis of the dominant wind directions and wind speeds at FINO1 (Fig. 1) shows that winds are generally from the southwest, but can come from any direction. However, surface waves generally propagate from the northwest with an average significant wave height between 1.25 and 1.75 m. Winds and waves at FINO1 are therefore rarely aligned and are rarely in equilibrium with each other, making it an ideal dataset for our intended use.
(top) Wind and (bottom) wave roses at FINO1 for (left) 2006, (center) 2008, and (right) 2010.
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
3. Turbulence resolving simulation
a. The atmospheric LES
Explicit details outlining our computational technique can be found in Sullivan et al. (2014). In basic terms, our LES model with a flat boundary Sullivan and Patton (2011) is adapted to the situation with a three-dimensional time-dependent lower boundary with shape





The underlying surface is presumed fully rough such that a bulk aerodynamic formulation relates horizontal velocities at the lowest model level to the surface stress using an imposed bulk roughness
b. The time-varying wavy surface
In terms of wave age, wind–wave equilibrium is empirically determined as
The surface waves are built offline following Donelan’s empirical directional spectrum (Donelan et al. 1985; Komen et al. 1994) using 1) an assumption that the wave field is a sum of linear plane waves with random phase and 2) an assumption of wind–wave equilibrium. Surface waves are generated using three different
(a) An instantaneous snapshot depicting the x variation at a fixed y location of the wavy surface h generated assuming wind–wave equilibrium and imposing three unique 10-m wind speeds
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
For each of these three wavy surfaces, six simulations are performed to investigate the impact of the wave propagation direction relative to the geostrophic wind direction; where the propagation angle varies from (0°, 45°, 90°, 135°, 180°, and −90°) relative to the direction of the geostrophic wind forcing. Figures 2b and 2c present a schematic and example surface.
c. The simulation strategy
To generate the simulations, the NCAR large-eddy simulation code (Sullivan et al. 2014) is first configured to represent flow over a completely flat but aerodynamically rough surface (with a roughness length
Turbulence in the flat-domain simulations is initiated by placing randomly distributed divergence-free fluctuations on the horizontal velocity and temperature fields and imposing a small horizontally homogeneous surface buoyancy flux (10 W m−2) for the first 20 000 time steps (approximately 1800 s). After these initial 20 000 time steps, the surface buoyancy flux is set to 0 W m−2, that is, the water surface temperature matches the air temperature, and the solutions are integrated forward for an additional 80 000 time steps (or a total of approximately 2.5 h) to allow the buoyancy influences to dissipate and for the turbulence to reach equilibrium with the imposed forcing. At this time, a flat-domain dataset is saved.
Most of the wavy simulations are initiated from this flat-domain dataset that was generated using a geostrophic wind forcing of
For each
Table outlining key characteristics of the large-eddy simulation cases under investigation. The first column defines case names that will be used when discussing the simulations. Here,
4. Results
a. Influence of wind-wave alignment
In this section, we focus our attention on a single set of six simulations (cases A1–A6). These simulations are all driven by the same geostrophic winds (
1) Instantaneous wind fields
To gain an initial appreciation for the impact of the wavy surface’s propagation direction, Fig. 3 presents instantaneous vertical slices of streamwise velocity for two simulations whose forcing is otherwise identical (i.e.,
Instantaneous vertical slices of streamwise wind velocity from two simulations where
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
Horizontal surfaces of instantaneous streamwise velocity fluctuations at
Instantaneous horizontal surfaces of streamwise wind velocity fluctuations (i.e., deviations from the instantaneous average over an ξ–η surface) at a height of approximately 5 m from four simulations where
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
2) Atmospheric boundary layer depth
The depth of the ABL represents an integral measure of all the turbulent motions produced and dissipated in the ABL through interactions with the surface. Therefore, evolution of the ABL depth occurring under variations in a single parameter illustrates that parameter’s bulk influence on ABL turbulence.
Following Sullivan et al. (1998) and Davis et al. (2000), the ABL depth can be determined by searching vertically through an instantaneous volume of simulated data for the height of the maximum vertical temperature gradient at every horizontal grid point. Following this search, one obtains height of the undulating surface coincident with the temperature inversion constraining ABL motions which can then be horizontally averaged to determine the average ABL depth at any instant in time. Time series of the instantaneous horizontally averaged ABL depth (Fig. 5) reveals that the wave-propagation direction influences the ABL growth rate.
Time evolution of the depth of the boundary layer
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
Starting at wave-propagation directions α between 45° and 90° (cases A2 and A3), the ABL grows faster than for the case where the waves propagate in the same direction as the driving pressure gradient (i.e., α = 0°, case A1). The ABL growth rate increases in a systematic fashion toward a maximum growth rate when the waves propagate in the opposite direction of the pressure gradient (i.e., 180°, case A5). The ABL growth rate responds similarly to waves propagating at
3) Data processing and normalization
Following Sullivan et al. (2014), statistics are calculated by averaging instantaneous quantities along ξ–η coordinate surfaces (i.e., along surfaces of constant ζ). Horizontal averaging in a wave-following coordinate system takes advantage of the periodic boundary conditions and allows for computing statistics down beneath the wave crests. These horizontally averaged vertical profiles are then additionally averaged in time. Because the boundary layer grows at different rates across the simulations (e.g., Fig. 5), time averaging begins after 12 000 s of simulated time (when the flow has reached equilibrium with the underlying surface) and continues until the end of the simulation, where the instantaneous statistics are averaged into a time-evolving vertical coordinate system scaled by the instantaneous horizontally averaged

















Scatterplot demonstrating the relationship between
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
Wave age characterizes the wave propagation speed relative to the overlying atmospheric flow fields (e.g., Csanady 2001), and can be defined as
4) Mean wind profiles
For these near-neutral1 simulations, intercomparisons of the mean wind fields reveal that swell-propagation direction significantly affects horizontally and time-averaged wind speeds to heights all the way through the ABL (Fig. 7). With a fixed pressure gradient (
Vertical profiles of horizontally and time-averaged wind aligned with the (left) positive x direction (
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
Wave-propagation angles of ±90° reveal distinctly different wind profile responses (Fig. 7) because the simulations are conducted in the Northern Hemisphere and geostrophic balance ensures that the near-surface mean wind direction is leftward of the geostrophic forcing. In the case with waves propagating in the α = +90° direction, the near-surface winds experience a wave-following regime, while the opposite is true for the case with α = −90°. For the conditions simulated, the scalar wind speed
5) Momentum flux profiles
The air–sea interaction community frequently presumes that 10 m is sufficiently high above the water surface to be above the direct influence of the waves (but still within the inertial sublayer where the turbulent momentum flux would be constant with height) such that turbulent fluxes or wind stress measured at this height is thought to represent the total surface stress (Toba et al. 2001). Somewhat surprisingly, Sullivan et al. (2014) showed this assumption to be reasonably true even for wind following waves with slight heating and large surface waves when the profiles are computed in wave following coordinates. We now interrogate the influence of wave-propagation angle on that result.
Evaluating Eq. (2) at all heights (i.e., not just at
Vertical profiles of horizontally and time-averaged (left) total stress
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
The first point to note in Fig. 8 is that the total stress in the
In the direction aligned with
In the direction perpendicular to
Above the water surface, it is important to emphasize that the magnitude of the pressure–wave slope correlation depends on the fluctuating pressure amplitude but also how rapidly the computation gridlines
b. Influence of wave age
1) Definition of wave age
The debate concerning the definition of wave age remains unsettled. For example, Högström et al. (2011) argues for
Variation of
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
2) Momentum flux profiles
Here, we investigate the combined influence of wave age
(i) Near wind–wave equilibrium
Near wind–wave equilibrium (0.96
(ii) Increased wave age
Smedman et al. (1999, among others) showed that depending upon the propagation speed of the waves relative to the wind speed (i.e., with increasing
Vertical profiles of horizontally and time-averaged (left) total stress
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
Vertical profiles of horizontally and time-averaged (left) total stress
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
Under low wind conditions with fast moving waves (i.e., large
c. Wind and stress vector alignment
For winds and monochromatic waves of a single




(a) Variation of the angle
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
In general, increased











5. Parameterization
Many parameterizations have been proposed for describing wave influences surface drag (e.g., Charnock 1955; Taylor and Yelland 2001; Drennan et al. 2003; Fairall et al. 2003; Drennan et al. 2005; Davis et al. 2008; Andreas et al. 2012; Edson et al. 2013; Högström et al. 2018). In this section we use our LES results to test two of those parameterizations in an attempt to understand the impact wind–wave alignment has on those parameterizations and to make an attempt to account for wind–wave alignment’s influence within one of them.
a. Nondimensional surface roughness




(a) Nondimensional surface roughness
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1










b. Direct relationship between 
and 




Andreas et al.’s (2012) relationship [Eq. (8)] works reasonably well for the LES data when the waves are nearly aligned with the mean pressure gradient (red and black symbols, Fig. 14a); although we do not have access to wave-state information for the Coupled Boundary Layers Air–Sea Transfer–Low Wind (CBLAST-Low) experiment (Edson et al. 2007; Mahrt et al. 2016), the trends in the CBLAST-Low data reflect a similar character to that found in the LES. However, Eq. (8) dramatically under predicts the friction velocity compared to the LES when the waves propagate at large angles relative to the wind direction (Fig. 14a); a finding which Andreas et al. (2012) were only able to hint at with their observations.
(a) Predictions of the friction velocity
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1






Note that Eq. (9) represents a simple prescription for surface drag based on wind speed but includes essentially linear corrections for wave age and wind-wave direction. Thus, Eq. (9) is a bulk formula in a similar spirit to the highly developed COARE formula proposed by Fairall et al. (2003, 2011). Notice also that application of Eq. (9) requires wave information and cannot be blindly used by an atmospheric model that is unaware of the surface wave state. One would either need wave-state observations (e.g., section 6) or a more advanced large-scale numerical weather prediction model such as those developed at ECMWF that are coupled to a spectral wave model (Janssen 2004) allowing for full interaction between winds and waves based on the quasi-linear theory of wind-wave generation proposed by Janssen (1989, 1991).
6. Testing in a regional climate model: WRF
WRF’s MYNN model provides a number of formulations that attempt to account for the influence of surface waves (e.g., Charnock 1955; Taylor and Yelland 2001; Fairall et al. 2003; Davis et al. 2008) on surface drag. To test the formulation presented in Eq. (9), WRF’s MYNN model was first modified to include an option to use Andreas et al.’s (2012) formulation. We were then able to incorporate the modification presented in Eq. (9). Once these new formulations were introduced into the MYNN model, we tested 3D WRF predictions using Eq. (9) as the surface layer parameterization in MYNN against the FINO1 tower observations.
To incorporate FINO1 wave-state information, we modified WRF to read wave-state variables derived from the FINO1 observations; these variables include 1) significant wave height, 2) significant wave period, and 3) wave propagation direction. To connect the observations with Eq. (9), we 1) assume that 30 m is sufficiently deep to satisfy deep water linear wave theory and construct a phase velocity
We used a three-dimensional, limited area version of WRF V3.6.1 to simulate an entire year (2006) over the North Sea. The numerical simulations were configured following standard wind resource assessment practices. Each simulation was carried daily for 30 h starting at 0000 UTC. The first 6 h were used as a spinup period. The output was saved every 20 min for 24 h between 0600 UTC on the first day and 0600 UTC on the second day. The computational domain covered the North Sea and northeastern Europe centered on the FINO1 tower and was discretized using nested computational domains with grid cell sizes of 9, 3, and 1 km. The innermost domain covered an area of 100 km × 100 km. In the vertical direction we used a stretched grid with 37 levels. Initial and boundary conditions were derived from National Centers for Environmental Prediction (NCEP)’s Final Operational Global Analysis (Schuster 2000). Geostrophic forcing and advection tendencies were extracted from the NCEP analysis data as well as initial profiles of the wind velocity components, potential temperature, and humidity.
To assess the influence of the new parameterization [Eq. (9)], we carried out two simulations. A baseline simulation used the Charnock (1955) parameterization on all domains, while the second simulation includes the new surface layer parameterization on the innermost domain only and used the Charnock (1955) parameterization on the outer domains. This strategy assumes that the wave state in the broad area surrounding the FINO1 tower can be represented by the measurements at the tower. In the simulation including the new parameterization including wave-propagation direction influences, FINO1-observed wave-state information was updated hourly and held constant for the subsequent simulated hour (i.e., no attempt was made to interpolate between the hourly observations).
Results of the two three-dimensional WRF simulations are shown in Fig. 15. Annually averaged wind speed measurements at the FINO1 tower are presented with black symbols, the green line denotes simulation results using the Charnock (1955) parameterization on all domains, and the blue line denotes three-dimensional WRF results with the new parameterization accounting for the effects of nonequilibrium waves on the innermost domain. Although the differences between two WRF simulations are relatively small (Fig. 15a), better agreement between the observations and the simulation accounting for the effect of swell is apparent. During 2006 at FINO1, winds and waves were generally misaligned (see Fig. 1). Therefore, when incorporating wave influences into the simulations, the increased drag induced by swell propagating at directions counter to the winds should act to increase the surface drag and reduce wind speeds; Fig. 15a reveals that the wave-state parameterization has precisely this influence on the annually averaged wind profile predictions. The simulated wind direction in both WRF simulations direction is also in generally good agreement with the data (Fig. 15b). Using the new surface layer parameterization mean absolute error (MAE) in hub height winds (at 91 m) reduces from 2.81 to 2.77 m s−1, while the RMSE reduces from 3.60 to 3.54 m s−1. These annually averaged error reductions are relatively modest, but certainly reflect increased predictive skill.
Vertical profiles of annually averaged: (a) wind speed and (b) wind direction at the FINO1 tower for 2006. Black circles depict the FINO1 tower observations, the green line depicts results from a 3D WRF simulation using WRF’s traditional Charnock (1955) formulation for
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
Interrogating specific cases clearly demonstrates the importance of the new parameterization. In Fig. 16, observed and simulated wind speed are shown for two different days, 9 October and 13 November 2006. On 9 October, the angle between the observed wind direction and the wave-propagation direction was 180° (opposite) and the wave height 1.3 m. On 13 November the angle between the observed winds and waves was 60° (nearly aligned) and the wave height was ~3 m. Waves opposing the winds increases the surface drag reducing predicted hub-height wind speeds (Fig. 16a); when waves are aligned with the winds (Fig. 16b), wave-induced surface drag accelerates the wind. In both cases, the simulation accounting for nonequilibrium winds/waves results in significantly better agreement with the observations with wind speed differences at 100 m between the two simulations of about 1 m s−1.
Comparison of simulations and observations of the wind speed at FINO1 on (a) 9 Oct 2006 and (b) 13 Nov 2006. Symbols represent observations, and lines are simulation results as in Fig. 15. Here, 9 Oct 2006 reflects a day when swell propagated in a direction opposing the winds, and 13 Nov 2006 reflects a day when winds and waves were nearly aligned.
Citation: Journal of Applied Meteorology and Climatology 58, 5; 10.1175/JAMC-D-18-0211.1
7. Discussion and conclusions
Fast moving swell induces pressure drag at the water surface. The magnitude and direction of the induced pressure drag force varies both with
Misaligned winds/waves increase the surface pressure drag by nearly a factor of 2 relative to the turbulent stress for the extreme case where waves propagate at 180° compared to the pressure gradient forcing; increased atmospheric stability increases the wave-induced pressure stress again by ~10%. Pressure drag induced by waves propagating in directions different from the 10-m wind vector alters the alignment between the 10-m wind and surface stress vectors. Wind speeds at 100 m reduce by nearly 15% for the 180° case compared to the 0° case; these impacts diminish with decreasing
In a broad sense, these results suggest that one needs information on winds, temperature, and wave state to upscale buoy measurements. Wind–wave alignment likely explains large scatter in nondimensional surface roughness
Acknowledgments
Authors EGP, PPS, BK, JD, LM acknowledge support from DOE Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy DE-EE0005373. Vestas Wind Systems A/S provided substantial computational resources in support of this project while the majority of the computations and analysis used resources of the National Energy Research Scientific Computing Center, a DOE Office of Science User Facility supported by the Office of Science of the U.S. Department of Energy under Contract DE-AC02-05CH11231. NCAR is sponsored by the National Science Foundation.
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We use the term near-neutral somewhat loosely. Even though the surface buoyancy flux is 0 W m−2, warm air is continually entrained at the top of the ABL making the flow weakly stable; see
Note that Drennan et al. (2005) use the notation