This work is sponsored by the Office of Naval Research through the Naval Research Laboratory’s research project Phase-Resolved Nonlinear Transformation of Shoaling Waves (Program Element 62435N). The in situ wind and wave data were supplied by the National Data Buoy Center, National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration. The nearshore buoy was supported by the Great Lake Environmental Laboratory Nearshore Hydrodynamics Program. We are grateful to the two anonymous reviewers who provided many constructive comments and suggested the simulation test presented in section 2b.
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