1. Introduction
Turbulence at the ocean surface is important to the exchange of gasses, heat, momentum, and kinetic energy between the atmosphere and ocean. Turbulence introduced through wave breaking (e.g., Craig and Banner 1994) as well as wave–turbulence interactions (e.g., Thorpe 2004) elevate turbulence levels beyond the predictions for classic rigid boundary layers (Agrawal et al. 1992). Extensive work over the past three decades has improved understanding of the oceanic surface boundary layer through field measurements (Agrawal et al. 1992; Terray et al. 1996; Drennan et al. 1996; Gemmrich and Farmer 2004; Jones and Monismith 2008; Gerbi et al. 2009; Sutherland and Melville 2015; Thomson et al. 2016), development of models (Craig and Banner 1994; Burchard 2001; Umlauf et al. 2003; Umlauf and Burchard 2003; Carniel et al. 2009), and laboratory measurements (Duncan 1981; Rapp and Melville 1990; Lamarre and Melville 1991; Drazen and Melville 2009). This prior work has focused on wave conditions in deep and intermediate water depth. A more limited literature has focused on measurements and models in the surf zone (Feddersen and Trowbridge 2005; Feddersen et al. 2007; Feddersen 2012a,b; Grasso et al. 2012) and at river inlets (Thomson et al. 2014; Zippel and Thomson 2015; Moghimi et al. 2016), where modifications to the wave field from currents and bathymetry alter surface boundary layer processes.
Very near the surface (within a few wave heights), turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) dissipation rates are balanced to a first order by turbulent transport (Scully et al. 2016), which can be modeled as a diffusive process (Craig and Banner 1994; Burchard 2001; Umlauf and Burchard 2003). Wave breaking provides a source of turbulence, which is modeled as a TKE flux input at the surface. In deep water, the equilibrium of short wind waves (Phillips 1985; Thomson et al. 2013) is often assumed, and the surface flux into the ocean is estimated from wind parameters (Gemmrich et al. 1994; Terray et al. 1996; Sutherland and Melville 2015; Thomson et al. 2016). In the surf zone, the breaking of long waves injects additional TKE to the surface, on the order of 10%–15% of the total wave energy flux gradient (Feddersen 2012b; Zippel and Thomson 2015).
The surface flux of turbulence is difficult to prescribe at river inlets, where wave breaking is different from purely wind-driven whitecapping or depth-limited surf. At river inlets, strong currents and gradients in currents can shoal and refract surface waves, often causing breaking in intermediate depth (Zippel and Thomson 2017). Indeed, even wave dissipation (distinct from the turbulent dissipation) in such environments is still an active area of research (e.g., Rapizo et al. 2017).
In addition to the magnitude of the TKE surface flux from wave breaking, the vertical fate of this turbulence remains an active research area. Many studies agree that the decay scale is set by the significant wave height Hs and that the vertical decay is a power law. However, measurements have yet to converge on a single decay exponent λ for TKE dissipation rate. Estimates are typically constrained to 1 < λ < 2, but this appears to be sensitive to the choice of reference frame. Many studies using fixed frame instruments, such as Terray et al. (1996), Drennan et al. (1996), Jones and Monismith (2008), and Gerbi et al. (2009), found decay scales of λ = 2. Studies measuring inside wave crests with wave-following platforms found different values, for example, Gemmrich (2010) found 1 < λ < 1.5, Sutherland and Melville (2015) found λ = 1 for z < 0.6Hs, and Thomson et al. (2016) found λ = 1.4.
There is a lack of consensus, then, on the appropriate surface flux of TKE and its vertical decay at river inlets. This has, in part, lead to difficulty in understanding how wave-breaking turbulence influences such regions and whether wave-breaking turbulence has distinct properties in these regions. Certainly, the bathymetry and currents at river inlets can enhance wave breaking, but once the waves have broken, the resulting turbulence may not be any different than it is in the open ocean. There is a small, growing body of work on how wave-breaking turbulence might interact with buoyant layers. For example, Gerbi et al. (2013) modeled a buoyant river plume during upwelling-favorable winds and found that the inclusion of wave-breaking turbulence increased plume thickness. Using field measurements, Thomson et al. (2014) showed large wave energy flux gradients across a plume front and observed wave-breaking turbulence levels at the surface that were as large as published turbulence values at the subsurface plume interface. Further studies have investigated surface boundary layer effects where buoyancy is relevant (Vagle et al. 2012; Gerbi et al. 2015).
Turbulence scalings
Currently, there is no clear consensus on how to map measurements from the
Here, we present field measurements of turbulence and waves from the mouth of the Columbia River to examine the validity of these surface turbulence models under a wide range of wave conditions. The uniqueness of the river mouth, relative to the open ocean, remains an open question, but the practical effect is to provide a natural laboratory with ample wave breaking. We focus in particular on determining an appropriate model roughness length and length-scale decay constant for the surface turbulence. A description of the field site, the dataset, and wave and turbulence processing techniques are presented in section 2. Data processing includes a method for correcting buoy velocities for platform motion and compares two methods for estimating TKE dissipation rates. Field measurements are compared with existing open-ocean turbulence models in section 3, along with a limited exploration of the interaction of surface turbulence with the subsurface stratification. Section 4 discusses the choice of model constants, and the implications of the measurement reference frame on the results. The results are summarized in section 5.
2. Methods
Measurements of waves and turbulence were collected from freely drifting Surface Wave Instrument Float with Tracking (SWIFT) buoys (Thomson 2012) at the mouth of the Columbia River as part of the Riverine and Estuarine Transport (RIVET) Experiment II (RIVET-II) between April and September of 2013. Up to six buoys were deployed at a time on drifts lasting a few hours each. On ebbs, the research vessel would often wait for the tide to change in order to safely cross the Columbia River Bar, such that buoys were not tended during the drifts. On floods, the research vessel could operate throughout the domain, and buoys were tended during the drifts (including being reset if they approached shore, thus avoiding grounding). Therefore, ebb deployments lasted longer, and more data were collected on ebb tides. Buoys were deployed in pairs, and they typically stayed within a few hundred meters of each other throughout a drift. Figure 1 shows drifter tracks over 10-m bathymetry contours (bathymetry prepared by Akan et al. 2017). Measured wave heights ranged from 1 to 4 m, winds were typically 5–10 m s−1, and drift speeds were up to 3.5 m s−1 on strong ebbs.
a. Surface waves and wave breaking
b. Raw turbulence data and motion correction
Velocities were measured using 2-MHz Nortek Aquadopp profilers. The Aquadopps were mounted inside the buoy spar, with the length of the Aquadopp body vertical. The Aquadopp heads were mounted in line with the body, such that the three acoustic beams were looking 20° off axis with vertical, and toward the surface. Samples were recorded at 4 Hz in pulse coherent burst mode, with a 5-min sampling interval (1024 samples per burst), in 16 profile bins spaced 4 cm apart with a 10-cm blanking distance. The profiler heads were mounted at 0.67 m depth such that the farthest bin from the Aquadopps was approximately at the ocean surface. Because the buoys were free drifting, the velocities measured in this reference frame were primarily turbulent fluctuations. The velocity range of the pulse coherent instruments was 1.15 m s−1 in the horizontal and 0.48 m s−1 in the vertical, allowing accurate measurement of turbulence in strong currents (drift speeds were measured over 3 m s−1, but drifter slip relative to these currents was less than 10 cm s−1). More details on the Aquadopp settings and sensitivity are in Thomson (2012).
The drifting platform primarily tracks with the free surface, such that velocity contamination by wave orbital motions is small. However, measured along-beam velocities ubeam(z, t) are contaminated by buoy motions, both translational (bobbing) and rotational (tilting) motions. We remove these motions from the time-domain-measured velocity as follows.
Raw measured along-beam velocities were corrected in the time domain u(t)cor,beam = u(t)meas,beam − u(t)bob,beam − u(t)rot,beam. Because of the centered difference estimates for
Example velocity spectra are shown in Fig. 2. Typically, the vertical velocities due to bobbing (and estimated from the pressure measurement) accounted for most of the platform motion contamination, and the effects of rotational motion were relatively small. The translational bobbing motions were most apparent near 1 Hz, the estimated natural frequency of the buoy (Thomson 2012). A second peak associated with the tilting motions was also apparent at a slightly lower frequency. The bobbing motions contaminate the frequencies where the equilibrium range is typically observed. Once corrected for platform motions, however, a region with f−5/3 slope is evident in most spectra, consistent with an inertial subrange. Two of the Aquadopp beams faced away from the vane and were thus oriented away from any flow disturbance caused by platform (i.e., away from self-wake). The third beam, however, often experienced flow distortion and was therefore not used.
c. TKE dissipation rates and TKE
Example profiles of TKE dissipation rates are shown in Fig. 3. The methods agree favorably in magnitude across the two acoustic beams outside of the buoy wake. The spectral method shows more variation vertically. This may be due to increased spatial independence in estimating dissipation. That is to say, the structure function method uses distributed spatial information in estimating TKE dissipation rates, which may blur existing spatial gradients. The spectral method is more localized in space, with strict separation between estimates in depth, which may be the cause of increased vertical slope in Fig. 3. This is consistent with the work of Guerra and Thomson (2017), where structure function estimates also showed less spatial variation than the spectrally estimated dissipation rates (i.e., Guerra and Thomson (2017, their Figs. 6 and 12). A comparison of the spectral method and the structure function method across all measurements and depth bins is shown in Fig. 4.
TKE is estimated using the variance of the motion-corrected velocities along each beam. The variances from beams 2 and 3 (beam 1 is in the wake of the platform and thus avoided) are averaged, such that
The velocity measurements in this study are referenced to the free-water surface (
3. Results
a. Wave steepness
Zippel and Thomson (2017) showed that wave steepness is a strong indicator of wave breaking at river inlets, and that the relevant steepness is between the deep-water formula for whitecaps and the shallow-water formula for surf. The turbulence results suggest that this wave breaking is the dominant source of near-surface turbulence throughout the Columbia River mouth. Figure 5 shows a strong correlation of depth-averaged TKE and TKE dissipation rates with wave steepness. The strong correlation of turbulence values with wave steepness holds for estimates from both the spectral method and the structure function method. Appendix A evaluates non-wave-breaking sources of turbulence, including shear production, buoyancy, surface convergence, and bottom stress; the conclusion is that wave breaking is the dominant forcing for turbulence in the upper 0.5 m.
b. Turbulent length scales
For roughness length proportional to the wave height,
Estimates of length scale just beneath the surface are consistent with the surface values, but do not further constrain model parameters. Figure 7 shows estimated length scales
c. Decay scales
Decay scales λ are estimated following the power-law model [Eq. (7)]. Applying the full model requires estimating the magnitude surface input TKE flux G, which is poorly constrained and not possible to directly estimate from these measurements. Instead of specifying G, the TKE and TKE dissipation rates are normalized by their measured near-surface values q2(0) and ε(0) (rather than scaling them). The normalized values are expected to have the same decay scale, but may contain errors due to uncertainties in vertical placement z. For ε, this offset error is [1 + (Δz/z0)]λ, where Δz is the error in position. For Δz on the order of an Aquadopp bin size (0.04 m), we expect this vertical error to be small. Errors in normalized TKE and TKE dissipation rates are expected to be log distributed. The noise floor in such a normalization is therefore relative to the surface value. However, given surface values of ε ~ 10−3 m2 s−3, and noise floors of ε ~ 10−5 m2 s−3, we expect approximately two decades, with error increasing farther from the surface. Noise floor estimates of TKE are more complicated because of motion correction, but a similar range could be expected.
Normalized TKE and scaled depth (Fig. 8) show good agreement with open-ocean power-law decay models, albeit with very specific parameters. The more standard model parameters
Normalized TKE dissipation rates are shown against scaled depths in Fig. 9. Here, parameters L = κ,
d. Fronts
Fronts are common in the vicinity of the river mouth, and these complicate the relation of wave steepness to turbulence shown in Fig. 5. The fronts are associated with strong horizontal gradients in currents −dU/dx. Such gradients are difficult to quantify with free-drifting buoys alone, because the drifters rapidly move toward the convergence zone and stay within it, providing no current or wave information on either side. Thus, the buoy estimates are highly localized within these gradients. Furthermore, these gradients may cause refractive focusing of the incident waves, which might cause increased wave breaking.
The dataset includes a few cases where spatial information is available in the form of surface current maps derived from airborne interferometric synthetic aperture radar (SAR) (Farquharson et al. 2014). An example of buoy 5-min drift positions are shown overlaid on a SAR composite velocity map in Fig. 10a, which is used as a case study of the interaction between the wave-breaking turbulence and the river plume.
The SAR velocity field is a composite of six aircraft passes over the estuary. Each pass took approximately 7 min to complete, so the surface velocity field shown in Fig. 10a evolved over a period of 42 min. This evolution, combined with calibration errors from pass to pass (<10 cm s−1), accounts for some of the variation seen in data collected during each track in the composite field. Other pass-to-pass differences may be ascribed to a surface velocity measurement bias that depends on the SAR viewing geometry in areas of large subresolution (meter scale) waves (Thompson and Jensen 1993). This bias has not been characterized for this dataset because of the lack a comprehensive measurement of the surface wave field (including breaking) throughout the domain. Areas of noisy measurements are due to low backscattered signal from the surface.
Despite these sources of noise, a front can be seen by the rapid spatial change in velocities in the SAR-derived velocity field (approximate longitude −124.02; Fig. 10a). A large gradient in wave energy flux would be expected across such a current gradient −dU/dx, even on following currents, because of the rapid change in wave steepness required from conservation of wave action and dispersion (Chawla and Kirby 2002). The SWIFT buoys were visually confirmed to be caught in this front at approximate longitude −124.04, which matches with tower-based radar measurements of the front (not shown; see Honegger et al. 2017). The drifters stayed in the front until they were reset to avoid grounding, and therefore the drift track is discontinuous at longitude −124. SAR measurements lagged the timing of buoys in the convergence zone, and thus the front is not as visible at this leading edge in Fig. 10a. Measurements of wave-breaking rate (Fig. 10b) and TKE dissipation rates (Fig. 10c) increased in tandem where the horizontal gradient in currents was largest (although the shown SAR velocities lagged the buoy timing, and the front edge is offset). The increase in wave-breaking turbulence at the front is consistent with the results of Thomson et al. (2014), where a similar example is provided from an ebbing front offshore (using a different case from this same dataset). Unfortunately, a direct estimate the wave surface flux G used in Eq. (7) cannot be made for any of these cases, because the wave measurements are at the gradient (rather than across it). Still, the elevated turbulence associated with the waves can be compared to other sources of turbulence in the river mouth.
Relation to estuarine turbulence
Interfacial turbulence across plume fronts is typically attributed to shear production, which is opposed by stable buoyancy at a strong density interface. This shear-driven turbulence has been measured at similar levels to wave-breaking levels (ε in the range of 10−4 to 10−3 m2 s−3; see Kilcher and Nash 2010; Horner-Devine et al. 2015). Therefore, it is worth investigating whether the surface turbulence O(10−3) at the river mouth is not exclusively from wave breaking and is affected by shear and buoyant effects that are expected in the absence of waves. In a similar manner, there are questions on the effect of wave-breaking turbulence on these estuarine forced (shear production and buoyancy) terms.
For the front case already shown, CTD casts were made on either side of the velocity gradient using a YSI CastAway (cast locations shown in Fig. 10a). Vertical shear was estimated over the buoy’s measurement range near the surface. Profiles of density (Fig. 11a) are used to calculate stratification N2 and are shown along with the estimate of squared shear S2 in Fig. 11b. In addition, the second vertical derivative of TKE is shown as a proxy for diffusive transport. Squared shear and buoyancy frequency measurements are of a similar magnitude to values reported in Jurisa et al. (2016) and are much smaller than the wave-breaking proxy of diffusive transport near the surface. Figure 11c shows mean measured TKE dissipation rates and estimates for mean downward advective transport
An estimate for the influence of buoyancy is made using the Ozmidov length scales in Fig. 11d. The Ozmidov length scale is defined
The example presented here shows a single case where vertical transport (diffusive and/or advective) is large compared to buoyancy and shear near the surface, in a layer that is thin compared with plume thickness (typically ~10 m at the Columbia River; see Kilcher and Nash 2010). Therefore, it is likely that the near-surface turbulence examined herein is generally unaffected by buoyancy and shear production. Since mean downward velocities are only expected to be large when drifters are trapped in fronts (a small subset of the data), the diffusion–dissipation balance shown in the previous sections is expected to be valid. The data presented in this case study also suggest a region below the measurements (
4. Discussion
a. Model parameters
Specification of roughness
As discussed in Burchard (2001) and Gerbi et al. (2009), setting L < κ suggests the turbulent length scale grows more slowly in the dynamic surface boundary layer than in rigid boundary layers. Gerbi et al. (2009) evaluated the ratio
b. Reference frames
Some discrepancy in reported slope λ may be attributed to choice of reference frames. As reported in Thomson et al. (2016), turbulence lasting longer than one wave period is moved vertically with the free surface, and thus fixed frame measurements capture an effective average of the turbulence at depths varying from the free surface. In other words, the advection of a depth-varying turbulent field across fixed frame instruments creates a complicated mapping between z-referenced coordinates and
A few notable features appear in the z-coordinate numeric mapping shown in Fig. 12. First, on a logarithmic scale (Fig. 12a), the shape of the mapping is qualitatively similar to the Terray et al. (1996) model. In particular, there is a nearly constant layer of dissipation above a power-law decay region due to the fractional coverage of water in the region, and thus it must be accompanied by a net TKE dissipation above the mean sea surface. Integration of the fixed-frame dissipation profile shows 30% of the total dissipation exists above the mean sea surface and 50% exists above z/Hs = 0.6 (the assumed breaking layer depth in Terray et al. 1996). The conversion also suggests measurements of λ in the fixed reference frame could decay faster than those in the moving reference frame below the breaking-layer depth. Because of the number of simplifications used, the numeric mapping presented here is only intended as a rough estimate. It does, at least, provide results qualitatively similar to the direct coordinate mapping of Thomson et al. (2016), wherein the surface-following estimates are maximum, on average, at the mean sea level [i.e., similarities between Fig. 12 herein and Figs. 2f,h in Thomson et al. (2016)].
5. Summary
Measurements of waves and near-surface turbulence at the mouth of the Columbia River were compared with existing analytical models and turbulence scalings. The observed surface turbulence is consistent with wave-breaking parameterizations developed for the open ocean, despite the uniqueness of the wave-breaking mechanism at the river mouth. This may be related to the relatively thick river plume, which is generally at least twice as thick as the waves are tall. Thus, stratification and shear are not relatively strong at the surface where waves are breaking.
The vertical dependence of the surface turbulence is consistent with a classic analytic model balancing diffusion and dissipation. TKE dissipation rates also follow the canonical λ = 2 power-law decay with depth, but for a range of scaled depths different than those originally proposed. Further, turbulent length scales estimated from measurements are seen to increase linearly with depth, supporting the a priori assumption.
The model is sensitive to the choice of constants, primarily the roughness length. Measurements suggest this roughness length is proportional to the significant wave height, perhaps because of advection by wave orbital motions. We find that the method used in processing turbulence data moderately changes the result; the spatial structure function blurs the vertical gradient, relative to a frequency spectrum approach, and this yields slightly decreased decay scales.
A mapping of coordinates from a reference frame moving with the free surface to a reference frame fixed at the still-water level is discussed. This mapping is dependent on the sea surface statistics and may help explain some of the discrepancies in reported power-law decay exponents.
Acknowledgments
Funding for this project was provided by the Office of Naval Research as part of the RIVET-II DRI, and for the DARLA group. SWIFT data are available at http://www.apl.washington.edu/SWIFT. Cigdem Akan prepared the bathymetry data. Hans Burchard, Johannes Gemmrich, Eric D’Asaro, and two anonymous reviewers provided valuable feedback. Thank you to the captains and crews of the R/V Oceanus, the R/V Pt. Sur, and the F/V Westwind, and the field engineers Alex de Klerk and Joe Talbert for invaluable help collecting data.
APPENDIX A
Non-Wave-Breaking Turbulence Effects
In river plumes outside of the near-surface layer, strong vertical shear is the mechanism for creating turbulence in stably stratified buoyant layers through Kelvin–Helmholtz instability. This leads to a three-term balance between TKE dissipation rate, TKE production from shear, and stabilizing buoyancy, ε = P + B, where production and buoyancy are often modeled
Shear number S2 can be estimated from velocity data collected on board SWIFT buoys. The along-beam, motion-corrected velocities are rotated into east–north–up coordinates using the heading pitch and roll data in the time domain and averaged over each 5-min burst period. The average east and north velocities are smoothed vertically using a moving-average filter, and then shear is estimated using a vertical centered difference scheme. These shear profiles are not corrected for Stokes drift effects, which may bias the shear in the lower water column measurements high. TKE profiles are smoothed in a similar manner, and
Estimates of buoyancy frequency N2 are unfortunately not available for the majority of the dataset. Jurisa et al. (2016) reports values of 0.009 < 〈N2〉 < 0.02 from the River Influences on Shelf Ecosystems (RISE) project (Hickey et al. 2010). The Columbia River plume in particular has notable linear velocity shear and density profiles (Kilcher and Nash 2010), which result in constant vertical N2. Extrapolating the larger 〈N2〉 reported in Jurisa et al. (2016) to the surface gives a range very similar to the center of the squared shear distribution, O(10−2) s−2. Thus, we draw a similar conclusion, that buoyant effects are secondary to vertical diffusive transport in the near-surface layer.
Shear and buoyancy numbers have a secondary effect in modifying the stability function Cμ, which directly influences νk. For a roughly constant shear number, this would modify R in Eq. (6), adjusting the decay exponent. The ratio
Bottom boundary layer turbulence is also estimated to be small relative to surface layer turbulence. The bottom boundary layer TKE dissipation rate is expected to scale as
Surface convergence at river plume fronts can create large downward velocities. These velocities can contribute to mean downgradient advection of turbulence,
APPENDIX B
Estimates of Turbulence Constants
Values for constants
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